Homes • Energy • Savings

New Company

2008-12-31T10:34:00.002-05:00

Good day!

It's been a while since the last post - much to talk about on limited time.

HzG has left his previous company to forge out on his own, enabling a bigger focus on energy performance and customer service. It has been quite a ride getting started - from departing a group that HzG had been with for 4+ years, to discovering more about people, to re-energizing.

The first few weeks saw HzG battle collusion, bad-mouthing and loyalty. The loyalty piece blew the collusion-bad mouthing combo OUT of the water. HzG has to thank everyone that listened and understood. OK, enough about that...

BIG things happening in Ohio in 2009. It appears that the energy budget will be increasing by up to 40%, enabling HzG and crew to provide additional comfort and savings to that many more people. The biggest issue moving forward is the ability of the various government programs to meet the demand. In order to get more people service, there needs to be more inspectors - and the state is in dire need of inspectors. Hint to anyone that suffered a layoff in this past year - contact Weatherization agencies and inquire about becoming an inspector (fair salary, paid training).

Take care all - and we'll touch base again in the new year!

Bouncers and Coolers

2008-10-14T21:02:00.005-04:00

Greetings!

Jekyll here...

This week, hZg ran into a scenario where I wanted to punch someone in the eye-socket. My crew lead calls me from a job site concerning a distressed client. This client was threatening him (a poor choice, for my crew lead was an ex-bouncer - however one of THE nicest guys you'll know).

Due to final blower door numbers not hitting target, the lead investigated an area of the house where air could be felt moving. The lead lifted a drop ceiling panel, having dust drop from the air onto the kitchen counter top and the dishes in the strainer. The husband (aka Control Freak of his Wife) shouted "What ARE you doing?! You're making a mess out of the kitchen and now my wife has to do the dishes AGAIN!"

Poor "F-in" baby. This house was no castle, however we put homes in better condition each time we leave than when we arrive. We also stay at every home and search until our target numbers can be achieved. I told my crew lead (who was wise enough to call me from outside of the house, out of earshot) - "You are the bouncer, I am the cooler. Be nice until I tell you it's time to not be nice." One of my all-time favorite lines. The crew lead got the point (and pictured me, bald hZg with a mullet - that seemed to lighten the mood) and explained to the male Helen Keller that not only will we clean the kitchen but we'd do the dishes again - once we solved the air leakage problem. It made the guy semi-happy to know that my crew lead groveled - once again "Be nice, until it's time to not be nice."

Moral of the story - some people just are pieces of...not-so-nice-humanity. Treat them fair and as if they were just having a bad day. If this doesn't work...punch them in the eye-socket.

Drop Down Attic Stairs

2008-09-30T21:31:00.004-04:00

So you think that you've done an excellent job of insulating your attic? Please...If I have to hear a homeowner say one more time, "I did a great job insulating my own attic - but I haven't noticed a difference..." I think I'll puke.

Professionals (not the guys that show up straight from Hee Haw) know what they are looking for in an attic. Air sealing, proper insulation values, calm seas...(another topic, another day).

hZg has been invited into many a proud homeowners' attic to view a job well done. The home owner pulls down the drop down staircase and I immediately know they are full of themselves for no other reason than bad gas.

If you can pull down your drop down staircase and see directly into the attic, there is an excellent percentage the "weekend Tim Taylor" forgot to insulate the hatch. This is a MAJOR insulation bypass, sure to cost the homeowner lots of money.

For brevity - there are insulated drop down stairs, but none have the proper R-value for an attic space. The best solution is the coffin hatch. This is a "coffin shaped" box that surrounds the folded up drop-down stairs. It has an R19 value on the sides and an R38 value on the top. When the drop down stairs are pulled downwards, you see the bottom of the coffin. Once climbing the stairs, you then must remove the lid of the coffin prior to gaining access to the attic. This lid is not only insulated, but weatherstripped as well.

So just when you think you know what you're talking about...think again. hZg will be polite to you and as long as you understand and agree - there'll be no repercussions...however...if you don't agree, there's always a blog to vomit on you...

Refrigerator Air Coils

2008-09-23T19:26:00.003-04:00

Today, hZg was left a note from our biweekly house cleaners. Yes, if there's one chore that Mr. and Mrs. hZg despise, it's housecleaning. Plus, we're keeping the economy going...yeah, that's the ticket...

Anyway, the note stated that if we cleaned the coils of our side-by-side refrigerator, we'd probably extend the life of the fridge, as well as save energy.

The NERVE of this simpleton telling hZg about energy and appliance life extension. What does SHE know...? Well, she knows alot.

So, after I retrieve the shop vac from the dungeon, er, basement, I proceeded to examine what she thought was a bit of dust. Low and behold, my allergies kicked into high gear upon the site of the dust bunnies. I think I filled the shop vac. I guess I was due. The last time I vacuumed the coils on the fridge was, let's see, um...never? However, we did buy the unit new - 11 years ago.

Point of the story is? Listen to what everyone tells you; perform what you think is correct. This person was wise regarding the appliance extension - the energy savings is still out for debate - however it does indeed make sense that when an appliance is operating at peak efficiency, money will be saved.

That's it for tonight. Sleep tight, and don't let the dust bunnies bite.

I'm Baaaaaaackkkkkkk

2008-09-21T11:20:00.002-04:00

It's been quite a year...quite a bit of analysis of not only the wonderful home market, but myself as well.

Moving forward as hZg blogs, you'll see the true nature of the beast: Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde. I've discovered that I truly love to help people, while despising them at the same time. Quite a battle, huh...?

The business atmosphere has been ever changing. While the economy is currently down, energy savings is up even more than it has been in the past. Grant funds are readily available; middle class people are taking the brunt of the hit, however do not qualify for said funds. Upper class; well, it costs quite a bit to fund the energy supply of the McMansions.

This past year I have been able to travel to various locations across this country, keeping an eye out of unique ideas in energy conservation. I've had the opportunity to work with people from all walks of life; shared values, laughed at theirs...unless of course they agreed with me. Have had a plethora of injuries which opened up new doors to business success. Have hired some absolutely great people to work with; have hired some that I wondered out loud, "Was I on heroin that day of hiring?"

With all this being said, you can expect to see regular irregular posts forthcoming. I will touch on true life energy stories; true life success stories; true life "I hate people" stories (and yes, to Mr. Ms. Anonymous - it DOES work for me); stories of business ventures; stories of regulations that are utterly ridiculous; basically, stories...

Please be advised; while there will not be cursing in this blog, there will be a great fair share of Jekyll & Hyde spewing. You may think I hate people (sometimes I do...) However, if you're smart (and not a complete idiot), you will see the best intentions come through. Whether you agree with them, that's up for debate...and I will be more than happy to debate with you. Heck, you may even change my mind.

Oh, that's funny...

House Diagnostics

2007-07-19T20:05:00.000-04:00

Greetings!

Since the last episode with the shoulder, the other one became separated due to protecting the injured one. Guess one truly shouldn't spar when injured, no matter how confident they are...

For the last 3 days, HZG has been in a House Diagnostic course. What is House Diagnostics? It is the determination of air leak zones. To truly determine a good reading, the contractor / inspector should have...a blower door ($3,000) and a TI-86 pre-programmed calculator ($300). Or...the contractor needs to be seasoned enough to visually inspect / crawl through attics and crawl spaces.

While the class was interesting and true to the subject, the main instructor emphasized that it is a TOOL, not the end all be all. There were several methods to determine the percentage of leakiness, one more valuable to the other due to the potential error of 200 CFM's. For those that are not in with the jargon, too bad - I'm tired and going to give you a brief description. The maximum amount the state allows for a zone to be leaky is up to 200 CFM's. This means that if you had a reading of 150 and good the day of the test, the monitor could go out an get a reading of 350 - and you'd both be right.

So while the course further emphasizes the value of an air tight shell, once again it comes down to the skill level of the contractor.

Bottom line? Don't believe for one second that the average Joe is an inspector - ask for credentials!

Old Theories in Weatherization

2007-07-13T17:54:00.000-04:00

Today's client was from the old school. She knew she had a problem, but didn't want to hear what was correct to fix it.

A cute little house sitting on a lake - however in need of proper weatherization. The attic was was for the most part floored and small, with one section open joist. There was about 2" of cellulose in the floored (loose floor board) section, and the same in the open joist section with stacks of fiberglass just sitting in various locations.

I recommended removing the floor boards so that a proper R38 could be installed, and the fiberglass be used elsewhere. The immediate response was, "The floor boards are necessary to walk in the attic (although they were loose, dangerous - and no one will ever go into this attic again.) The fiberglass is really good where it's at (yea, stacked four feet high in one location.) I explained what I would do if it were my house and why...however I truly don't think she was convinced.

I told her that I believe her ridge vent wasn't enough ventilation for the attic and that I would check the proper measurements upon getting back to the office. She immediately said that she has 3 roof vents in addition to the attic. I didn't see any, and offered to go up on the roof. Upon getting back down, I explained that she had the best invisible roof vents I've ever seen. Now she is starting to become a believer...

Lastly, her bathroom fan was vented into the attic - not to the outside. She swore see saw the vent on the roof. I explained she probably saw the soil stack - and I verified that as well while on the roof. I explained that she should have the fan vented directly to the outside. Her response was "I only use the fan on occasion. I really like letting the steam filter into the house for comfort."

I was tired at this point of teaching, but I proceeded on. Did I mention that this whole time she must have stated 20 times that she doesn't have a lot of money?

Well, I think she finally believed me (it helps when you give home owners tips to do on their own.)

We'll see if you can teach an old dog new tricks...

Forcing the LAZY to use bathroom fans

2007-07-12T20:37:00.000-04:00

Hello from the injured HZG. Had a cortisone shot in the shoulder and the pain was great enough to shut me down for a while. It was enjoyable doing groundhog attic inspections (where you pop up your head). Seriously though - if I saw something, I had my lead techs with me to crawl. Hopefully back at it tomorrow.

Today's topic is the latest and greatest for lazy people. It's the motion detector bathroom fan. For indoor air quality, bathroom fans should be used for every bathing event, running from the time the water runs to 10-15 minutes after exiting the bathroom. In the HWAP programs, we would install fans on switches that you KNOW were never turned on. How do we know? The follow up post-installation reviews showed the majority of the time, the fans were not in action.

With this being said, we found a way for as little as $30 (up to $100 for electrical work) - a motion detector could be put in. This detector is set for 15 minutes connected to the fan, so that when someone is entering the room and leaving the room, the fan remains on for 15 minutes.

The only complaints we receive are from the people that are just using the bathroom to, well, go to the bathroom. Based on some of the bathrooms we've smelled lately, this isn't necessarily a bad idea...

Energy Savings in Utah

2007-07-05T09:10:00.000-04:00

Greetings!

Back from visiting relatives in Utah - boy what a difference climates can make. When the low there is the high here (Ohio) - you can imagine the energy requirements may be different.

Utah is one growing place. If you're getting into the home building or fence erecting business - start in Utah - the economy is booming.

Each home has air running full time. The insulation is fair at best, with an R-30 average at best in the attic. There were also retro-fitted air conditioners located on the roofs (causing damage to the shingles, I might add. Very strange to look at (almost like a water tank on the roof.) Speaking of water...while the insulation was a small concern - the water supply is what frightens HZG.

Every yard appears to have a sprinkler system. With the boom in home building occurring, the demands of water will continue to rise. Global warming has affected the snow volume, which then affects the water volume.

I hope the Utah planners have this one figured out...

Ceiling Fans in Conjunction with AC

2007-06-26T13:14:00.001-04:00

Recovering from the heat / freeze headache that has developed today - you know, when you go from a chilled environment of 68 degrees into 91 degree heat, back into, back out of...you get the picture...HZG had the idea to write about energy savings and AC. The following paragraphs were lifted from another article and tweaked accordingly. The bottom line is still the same...

Circulating fans include ceiling fans, table fans, floor fans, and fans mounted to poles or walls. These fans create a wind chill effect that will make you more comfortable in your home, even if it's also cooled by natural ventilation or air conditioning. Ceiling fans are considered the most effective of these types of fans, since they effectively circulate the air in a room to create a draft throughout the room.

If you use air conditioning, a ceiling fan will allow you to raise the thermostat setting about

4°F with no reduction in comfort. In temperate climates, or during moderately hot weather, ceiling fans may allow you to avoid using your air conditioner altogether. Install a fan in each room that needs to be cooled during hot weather.

Ceiling fans are only appropriate in rooms with ceilings at least eight feet high. Fans work best when the blades are 7–9 feet above the floor and 10–12 inches below the ceiling. Fans should be installed so their blades are no closer than 8 inches from the ceiling and 18 inches from the walls.
Larger ceiling fans can move more air than smaller fans. A 36- or 44-inch diameter fan will cool rooms up to 225 square feet, while fans that are 52 inches or more should be used in larger rooms. Multiple fans work best in rooms longer than 18 feet. Small- and medium-sized fans will provide efficient cooling in a 4- to 6-foot diameter area, while larger fans are effective up to 10 feet.

A larger blade will also provide comparable cooling at a lower velocity than a smaller blade. This may be important in areas where loose papers or other objects will be disturbed by a strong breeze. The fan should also be fitted to the aesthetics of the room—a large fan may appear overpowering in a small room.

A more expensive fan that operates quietly and smoothly will probably offer more trouble-free service than cheaper units. Check the noise ratings, and, if possible, listen to your fan in operation before you buy it.

When buying window fans, look for the ENERGY STAR label. Fans that earn the label move air 20% more efficiently, on average, than standard models.

Well, I tweaked it less than I thought. Bottom line - use ceiling fans in conjunction with AC - and save money...

Top 10 worst insulated attic...

2007-06-25T12:52:00.001-04:00

Today HZG encountered one of the top 10 worst insulated attic jobs. While the old home was immaculately kept, the attic was, let's say, interesting...

Here's the list of issues; you be the judge...

1) Attic door was not insulated. There was simply a 3/8" piece of plywood

2) Upon entering, there was 1/2" of vermiculite at the bottom of the the joist area

3) On top of the vermiculite was 1" of Styrofoam shells and peanuts - not a solid blanket.

4) Scatter throughout was 1" of fiberglass batting - maybe one run for every 5 runs

5) On top of this concoction was plastic - over the ENTIRE attic

6) A chimney chase that was 2' wide around the entire perimeter, traveling 2 floors

7) Light fixtures that you could see into the room below

Besides this, the attic was fine.

The client was very understanding and is excited to have the issues corrected. Me too...

Floored Attic Consequences

2007-06-22T17:52:00.000-04:00

One of the consequences of having a floored attic is the lack of insulation. The typical attic joist is 6", meaning an R19 insulation value.

The plus of a floored attic is a storage space for items you may NEVER see again. The negative is the loss of energy. Due to the need for an R38 in attics, you are losing half of the energy you could be saving.

If you do not need the storage space...I'm talking NEED...HZG recommends removing the floorboards and replacing with the R38. You'll be amazed at how much you'll save...

Psycho Clients

2007-06-21T17:21:00.000-04:00

Today, HZG encountered another "Psycho Client from Hell." That's putting it mildly.

This will be more of a rant than a blog - however if you think this is you - PLEASE do not torture other people that come to your home.

From the moment the crew stepped in the house to perform work until the moment they left - this client was always less than 2' away. We typically do not mind someone watching us work, but this lady asked question after question after question. Again, we do not mind people asking questions. However, it was THE SAME question each time. "Why are you insulating the walls? X3". "Why are you putting a weatherstrip on my door?X3". You get the idea.

This lady not only would follow us around, but she carted her oxygen tank along with her...while smoking a cigarette. She must have gone through 3 packs.

Lastly, in order to perform the final blower door we had to put the home into winter operating condition - close all windows, doors, etc. You'd have thought that we had started a riot. "It's too hot in here to be doing this." "How much longer, the house is filling up with smoke - I'm on oxygen you know."

This was a modern day version of "Psycho."

I think I'm done now...

Simple Energy Efficient Tactic

2007-06-20T19:56:00.000-04:00

Sometimes saving energy is easy...too easy. Today's topic is about window shades.

Window shades not only prevent people from seeing in your home, it also prevents sunlight - a warmer in the summer and a cooler in the winter. Here's an easy rule of thumb...

Summer

Keep your shades down in the east until noon, down in the west after that. This tactic will keep the heat out of your home during the day and keep it cooler naturally.

Winter

Keep your shades up in the east in the morning and up in the west in the afternoon. This tactic will allow the sun's warmth to enter your home and aid in keeping it warm.

Easy-speezy.

Concrete Patios - The Big "No No's"

2007-06-19T13:40:00.000-04:00

Concrete patios are great. They come in various colors, textures and designs. When installed correctly, the value - emotional and monetary - go up. When done poorly, the costs of maintaining your home can skyrocket - and value can be lost.

What could go wrong with a patio? Well, the biggest "No No's" are..."Don't assume that your patio is sloped correctly" and "Don't assume that your patio is installed against your home correctly."

The first No No is the slope. Ensure that when a level is place on the patio that the slope is AWAY from your home. If it is not, you will have basement issues - end of the story. Walls were not designed to have water pool on them.

The second No No is the attachment, or lack thereof. The patio should not be attached to the house; it should be free floating or sitting on a pre-installed ledger. Too many times HZG has gone to a home with basement water issues only to discover that the water is entering through a rebar penetration. Some contractors actually popped holes in the basement block to install the rebar so that the patio would be levered. What these contractors did not realize is that they created a pathway for water to enter. Once a block is stained, it's stained.

That's it for this ramble...

Dirty Ducts

2007-06-18T12:03:00.000-04:00

Before you decide to hire a company to come out to clean your ducts due to all of the dust in the air, it will be useless unless you prevent the dust from accumulating again in the future. Per Energy Stars website, the preventative maintenance should be the following:

1) Use the highest efficiency air filter recommended by the manufacturer of your heating and cooling system.
2) Change filters regularly.
3) If your filters become clogged, change them more frequently.
4) Be sure you do not have any missing filters and that air cannot bypass filters through gaps around the filter holder.
5) When having your heating and cooling system maintained or checked for other reasons, be sure to ask the service provider to clean cooling coils and drain pans.
6) During construction or renovation work that produces dust in your home, seal off supply and return registers and do not operate the heating and cooling system until after cleaning up the dust.
7) Remove dust and vacuum your home regularly. (Use a high efficiency vacuum (HEPA) cleaner or the highest efficiency filter bags your vacuum cleaner can take. Vacuuming can increase the amount of dust in the air during and after vacuuming as well as in your ducts).
8) If your heating system includes in-duct humidification equipment, be sure to operate and maintain the humidifier strictly as recommended by the manufacturer.

Remember, treat the cause, not the symptom.

Building Tightness Limits

2007-06-16T10:42:00.000-04:00

Otherwise known as the BTL...hold the mayo.

The building tightness limits (BTL) show how tight, well, the building is. When a weatherization contractor air seals a home and runs a blower door, there is a number that is very important that when you exceed it - additional steps must be taken.

Each home has a different limit based upon size of the home, number of occupants, pets, weather they smoke (occupants, no pets) and other moisture sources. When a home gets too tight, the indoor air quality takes a turn for the worse. Imagine if you will being in a room that has a window that's open all the way. Then imagine if you will 3 people in the room, one of the people smoke, there's a dog and an aquarium. Now, one last time, imagine if the window is shut so that only 1" remains open. Is the indoor air quality better or worse?

Duh, it's worse. What could be done (besides opening the window back up)? Introduce an exhaust fan. This aids in the recycling of the air.

The key to exhaust fans shall come in a later writing. It's time for HZG to go to "get thrown" training.

Educational Day - House Diagnostics

2007-06-15T07:49:00.000-04:00

Every so often, one needs to sharpen his skills and learn something new. It's no different for HZG.

Today, we are meeting with the State Monitor to review house diagnostics. While we will be attending the full blown training in July, this is more of a "one on one" session.

What is house diagnostics? It's making sure the house is first of all, healthy. Any work that we do must keep the house healthy. This involves backdrafting, room pressures, CAZ areas, etc. The second part is making sure that the house is communicating as a system - sealed appropriately around the thermal envelope.

Today is more of a day to learn through the eyes of someone with just as much experience, if not more...

Will update you if any "nuggets" are had...

Energy & Art

2007-06-14T09:46:00.000-04:00

Today's blog isn't a blog at all. It's an interesting link to a website - part of which goes to show American environment, energy and human waste. Pretty amazing stuff...

http://www.chrisjordan.com/current_set2.php?id=7

It's remarkable what can be created into art...

Tuckpoint before Treating

2007-06-13T15:15:00.000-04:00

Before doing any work around your basement walls (such as insulating, waterproofing, etc.), make sure to tuckpoint the block.

Tuckpointing is the recementing of mortar joints that have come apart over time.

In a crawl space that we just finished, we tuckpointed for a good 2 hours. Since we were going to adhere insulation board to the block, we first had to do whatever we could to stop the air flow as well as prevent as much potential water breach as possible.

If you use a hydraulic cement, the mortar will dry much more quickly. However, we still suggest waiting a full 24 hours for the best cure.

Cost Saving Material - Insulation Board

2007-06-12T15:57:00.000-04:00

When performing an insulation job using foam board, it is important to measure cost versus labor. Does buying a more expensive item that takes less time to install make sense? Absolutely.

HZG came from a job our crew was on today where the material quoted was not used. We originally were quoted 4' x 8' sheets of 2" R7.8 foam board at $26.00 per sheet. At the warehouse, the lead foreman called me and stated that they were now carrying 2' x 8' sheets of 2" R7.8 for $16 per sheet. We needed 7-4' x 8' sheets - or 14-2' x 8' sheets. The difference equated to $42 more in expense. Was this a good deal? Once again, absolutely.

The extra $42 was not only quickly saved, but earned extra money for the day. The labor saved was the cutting (to fit into the crawl space) and the ease of seaming the straight cuts. This portion was a break even. However the time saved was parlayed into getting in another job, thereby earning us additional cash. The last positive result was the appearance. Nothing beats a pre-cut look, and the homeowners were very pleased.

So when pricing a job, look at all aspects - not just the ones that clobber you in the head...

Insulating the Door

2007-06-11T21:32:00.000-04:00

Good day all!

Today, HZG went on a sales call to an FOP home. Supposedly, the gas bills for this newly acquired home were quite high - and the air conditioner runs non-stop. Well, the answer was a little surprising.

The attic space was not going to be used for anything but storage. The owners had previously insulated under the wood flooring - both in the main part of the attic and the kneewalls. A fairly decent job, no less. The issue was the entry leading to the attic space.

Upon opening the door, you still felt cool in the space (mid-80 degrees today). It wasn't until you got to the top of the attic that the temperature drastically switched. Why?

The walls and staircase were not insulated. Worse than that, the door was not insulated - and a LOUVERED door to boot.

Solution - dense-pack the stairway wall and steps, replace the louvered door with a solid door and add an R19 batt with 6 mil poly to the door's surface. Lastly, weatherstrip the door - yes, it must be treated as if it were to the outside, which in essence it is.

Unforeseen aggravations...add to cost

2007-06-08T15:37:00.000-04:00

Hail is not a beautiful thing when it involves your transportation. Today we had TENNIS ball size hail, accounting for a smashed windshield and 11 dents.

This type of issue MUST be included in your job costing. Where does the time lost and expense go? To the overall cost of the product, service or sale of home. Soooo, don't forget when you get a quote or figuring in you calculations...add in maintenance and service to your overall yearly picture.

OK, so I'm aggravated...sorry for the short diatribe...

Garage issue...and the wonders of Caulk

2007-06-07T18:02:00.000-04:00

HZG went on a crawl space call today that also resulted in a moisture issue - easily fixed.

Prior to insulating a crawl space, you need to ensure that any moisture issue is taken care of first for indoor air quality reasons. In this home, the crawl space wall along the garage was saturated from the floor level down. I asked the home owner if there was quite a bit of water in the garage during the various seasons - snow in the winter, car washing in the summer. The answer was "Yes."

Inside the garage was a nice exposed block (part of the crawl space) and a nice size seam where the floor meets the block. Exposed.

Easy recommendation: apply a water repellent product (Zinsser, among others) to the block and an inexpensive silicone caulk run along the floor wall seam.

Hidden Costs of Weatherization & Retro-fits

2007-06-06T15:21:00.000-04:00

In today's climate (no pun intended...), prices are continuing to climb. Not only in the cost of the product, but the hidden costs of what it takes to complete a job. This hidden cost in business is the price of gasoline. To and from jobs, special runs, changes, etc. - these all cost additional funds of labor and GAS.

The price of gas MUST be figured into your service costs. If you have a round trip of 50 miles, not only do you have the time involved with drive-time - but you have to calculate truck expenses...those 50 miles can equate to $90 in expenses.

On retro-fitting of houses, the cost of gas must be figured in the overall net profit of a home sale. Too often we take gas for granted - and it can be a LARGE expense when it comes to a lengthy rehab...

Ranch Homes & Staircase Rakes

2007-06-05T14:35:00.000-04:00

If you own a ranch home with a basement that has not been weatherized (air sealed), it more than likely has a staircase rake that is losing vast amounts of energy.

A staircase rake is the area where the basement stairs' ceiling is exposed to the attic space. Typically, insulators simply ran batt insulation over the rake - without having a ceiling underneath. This means that the heat (or air) from the home would escape through the drywall - directly into the attic space.

If you were to properly air seal rakes (and other bypasses) it is a guarantee that your energy consumption would go down.

HZG prefers using foam board to cover the area, sealing the edges with caulk and foam. Once this has been done, we insulate over the area - giving the home a barrier that it never had.

Bathroom Fan Venting Oops Part Duh

2007-06-04T12:15:00.000-04:00

Today's sales call involved a nice bathroom fan installation. It was sealed tightly in the ceiling. It was the right sizing for the bathroom scale. It had the electricity routed correctly for the 3 stages. It was a very quiet fan. Everything was done well...except the positioning and venting - which there was neither.

Too many times bathroom fans are simply vented into the attic space. Very few people realize what type of moisture damage can occur - until it's too late. So besides the need to straight pipe tube and insulate the exhaust, the reason for this blog is the positioning of the fan.

Common sense...oh, a commodity that if we could sell we could make a KILLING. As stated above, the fan was indeed installed and wired securely. However, the idio...er, person, installed the fan with the exhaust 1 inch - that's 1 INCH - from the joist. No wonder it wasn't vented - it was blasting the wood (keeping the wood nice and moist).

The home owner stated that the fan never worked right - or as right as they thought is should. No wonder...

HZG re-positioned the fan and vented it properly to the outside. The clients were amazed when I ran the bathroom steam test how well their fan worked.

Real Estate Sales

2007-06-01T17:09:00.000-04:00

Slow...

Whether the house is in pristine shape; weatherized; discounted; applianced; you name it - sales of existing homes are slow.

The home we've had on the market for the last 90-days has been slow to get people through - although it is in excellent shape. When talking to many Realtors, the talk is the same - the market place is slow.

Price drops are happening at every corner - and yet the market is still in a standstill. While we have been used to seeing 4% to 10% yearly housing price increases - this year we will see drops. Substantial drops.

Funny thing, I don't see the the County Auditors giving us tax money back based upon depreciation...

Idiots and Lead Based Paint

2007-05-31T20:26:00.000-04:00

Today HZG encountered a first in idiocy - a terrified Lead Based Paint home owner.

Our crew was out to perform an easy weatherization job. We were told up front that the client was a neat nick - no problem; and that their house had lead based paint, but it was abated. Although it was abated, the client still believed that lead based paint existed.

The client very politely asked that whomever we sent in the attic to do work NOT come in their home due to your children. She did not want them to be exposed to the potential lead dust. Since the access to the attic was through an exterior gable vent, we'd come in contact with the abated paint that was not abated... Since the customer is always right (unless their dead wrong), we complied. I sent a 3rd crew person to the job to ensure that we had enough people inside of the home.

This is where it gets interesting. The guy we had in the attic did his job. As he was blowing the attic, we had one of the guys on the bottom rung of the ladder with the remote to hand up to the person. The client saw this. Apparently, lead based paint can travel via osmosis through the ladder to the person on the bottom rung. She asked the guy at first to make sure he washed his hands...then changed her mind and asked him NOT to come inside. Lead based paint via osmosis... Good thing we had a 3rd guy to run the final tests.

On a secondary humor note, the client also sent back religious literature for anyone in our office that needs a spiritual awakening. Why does this information always land on my desk?

Tankless Hot Water Systems

2007-05-30T13:01:00.000-04:00

The new "rage" is tankless hot water systems - "new" being in the States for the last 20 years. European countries have had these systems for well over 40 years.

Tankless heaters have pros and cons, just like everything else. They can supply an endless supply of hot water, and can save energy. However...

They are limited in the amount of hot water that can be produced at one time and they are more expensive to purchase than a conventional storage type water heater.

They also make it take longer for you to get your hot water, since they don't start heating the water until you turn on the faucet. This problem can be solved by using a specialized pump, which in combination with the tankless unit can get your hot water to you at less than half the time it would take running the faucet full blast.

The tankless water heaters also cause an increase in water wastage since you have to let the water run longer to get your hot water. This problem is also solved when using the specialized pumping system. Water conservation is an important advantage to the pumping system.

Tankless hot water heaters save energy and thus money. Water heating accounts for 20% or more of an average household’s annual energy expenditures. The yearly operating costs for conventional gas or electric storage tank water heaters average $200 or $450, respectively.
Storage tank-type water heaters raise and maintain the water temperature to the temperature setting on the tank (usually between 120° -140° F (49° -60° C). Even if no hot water is drawn from the tank (and cold water enters the tank), the heater will operate periodically to maintain the water temperature.
This is due to "standby losses": the heat conducted and radiated from the walls of the tank—and in gas-fired water heaters—through the flue pipe. These standby losses represent 10% to 20% of a household’s annual water heating costs.

Unlike "conventional" storage tank water heaters, tankless water heaters heat water only as it is used, or on demand. A tankless hot water heater has a heating device that is activated by the flow of water when a hot water valve is opened. Once activated, the heater delivers a constant supply of hot water. The output, however, limits the rate of the heated water flow.

HZG was at a seminar recently, sitting enjoying the silence. Two people next to me were in a discussion - loud enough to be heard so I wasn't eaves-dropping. A new complaint regarding the system came up - and I had never heard it before. Some systems have a "minimum" amount of water flow necessary to turn the system on. This gentleman was having issues with not running a faucet full force, for the heat wouldn't turn on.

Sometimes we learn something when we least expect it...

House as a Thermos

2007-05-29T10:27:00.001-04:00

HZG hopes everyone had an enjoyable Memorial Weekend.

Many thoughts passed through HZG's mind this weekend (along with deciding not to do a stitch of "job" work). As the temperature steadily rose and hit 88 degrees, I felt it was time to re-address the value of insulation.

Yes, we typically think of insulation needs in the winter, with the price of gas being what it is. However, we all too often forget the extreme value of insulation in the summer months. While electricity is currently less expensive than the price of gas, it is still an expense.

Insulation's purpose it to keep the "hot, hot" and the "cool, cool." There is nothing better than coming home in the summer and walking into a home that is cooler than the outdoors - and the AC isn't even on. When the extreme summer temps get here and the AC does run, you'll notice that it runs less.

One side-perk is that you can usually get an insulation / weatherization contractor in your home quicker during these "down" months. Until people realize the house is a thermos, the summer months bring slower weatherization times.

Seminar "Nuggets"

2007-05-25T15:32:00.001-04:00

Yesterday HZG attended a conference on "Homes that work." Energy stuff, you know...

Some nuggets jotted down for your perusal.

* 20% of customer satisfaction is determined by the warranty service program

* Wet spray cellulose does not work in a humid climate as well as a dry climate...if builders encapsulate in drywall too soon. Mold issues...

* Large overhangs provide great solar control, saving energy

* The new CFL may become the incandescent light; in process is the development of the LED and the Cathode Ray

* Water can climb in concrete in excess of 1,000 feet

* Capillary breaks on footers should be completed to stop water from rising

* A single pane window has an R-value of .92. An 8" concrete wall has an R-value of .62. Go figure...

* 19 independent tests were done on exhaust fan ventilation. Out of the 19, it was shown that all 19 will installed / vented incorrectly - resulting in a 50% capacity of operation.

Air Leakage Hint...

2007-05-23T18:05:00.001-04:00

Today's topic is short and sweet - due to the fact that it was an 85 degree day in the attics...

When you go into the basement, one easy sign of air leakage detection is...

Cobwebs.

Typically a sign of poor housekeeping (excluding Mrs. HZG, of course), cobwebs can also lead you to air leakage. Why? Spiders build their webs close to fresh air sources to attract bugs. Cobweb - air leak.

Just a little tip from your Uncle HZG.

Roofing Quotes Gone Bad

2007-05-22T18:52:00.000-04:00

Sometimes in the weatherization field (and home retrofit) we run into bad roofs. Getting quotes on roofing can range from $3,000 to $14,000 - on the SAME roof.

Besides the obvious - shingle style and life, chimney / stack flashing, etc. - there is a blatant area that should be looked at on EVERY single job. This area is the roof decking.

Too many quotes are generated from ground level. Even walking on a roof sometimes is not enough.

Before hiring any roofing contractor - AFTER checking all references - if the roofer does not go into your attic, do not hire this person.

In the attic is where you can truly discover decking issues, rot, mold, poor framing, etc. If the roofer doesn't check, you are likely to get hit with a DISCOVERY fee. This is a fee that the roofer will charge for discovering an issue not included on their quote. What are you going to do once your roof is half off - not have them finish the job. That's right - they've got you.

Sooooo, make sure all of your quotes are all inclusive of ever issue that may occur - and have them sign a statement such as "The quote given includes are issues - seen and unseen. The quote will not be adjusted upwards for any reason." The roofer that does not flinch is the one to hire...

Old windows and one easy fix...

2007-05-21T14:58:00.000-04:00

Today, HZG had an opportunity to go on a weatherization sales call in a century home (100 years and older). Although this was a century home, we've seen this problem exist in 20 year old homes.

This home had many issues, the most visible being old, leaky windows. As part of the weatherization quote, we added "caulking the window panes."

Caulking window panes can be the easiest and least expensive fix out there. With a $4 silicone caulking tube, you can stop air leakage in approximately 5 average sized windows.

If the window "rattles" upon touch, it needs - at minimum - caulked. Simply run a bead around the inside perimeter of the window pane and frame, trowel smooth with your finger and let set. 90% of the time it will solve a "leaky" window issue.

Siding Issues and Water

2007-05-20T19:34:00.001-04:00

You've heard me say before that water is the "Devil." OK, maybe in not those exact words, but close. Not only can water be a home issue for basements and roofs, but siding as well.

HZG had a sales call over the weekend due to a mysterious leak in a living room. During the last rain storm, a couple of drips of water plopped on the home owner's head while on the couch. Right above the room was a bedroom - not running water.

After measuring from the edge of the house to the leak spot on the interior, I proceeded to go outside to correspond the measurement. Low and behold, at the exact same level as the leak, there were not one but two issues.

The first issue was blatant - a new cable line inserted into the room above. The cable installer forgot to caulk the hole - exposing the opening to rain.

The second issue was a poorly sided home. Aluminum siding has notches that are hidden when properly overlapped. The installer must not have measured properly and had the notches exposed to the air. As rain would cascade down the siding, it would wick into these notches.

HZG suggested the home owner spend $10 on caulk and fix it himself. Hopefully the day's good Karma will come back.

Wheelchair Ramps

2007-05-18T18:18:00.000-04:00

Today, HZG was at an energy sales call when the topic of wheelchair ramps came up. The client was interested in weatherizing their home for the summer's air conditioning needs (yes, weatherization works year round). Their parents were moving in with them due to a disability, and they wanted the home as comfortable as possible.

While the client was talking, they mentioned that they were going to have a wheelchair ramp built on their deck. Being extremely inquisitive (a.k.a. nosy), I asked where they were going to put the ramp. She showed me - and I asked if the ramp was going to be code in the location she pointed out. Bewilderment. I explained that in the location she was looking to have the ramp, the slope would be 1:4 at best - and that the person in the wheelchair had better be an ex-bodybuilder.

The average code around the country is 1:12 for wheelchair ramps. The higher the second number, the better. The "1" stands for the rise, the "12" stands for the run. What does this mean? For every one unit of height (inch) you need twelve units (inches) of run. The slope is the line that connects the two. So you can see that a 1:4 is a SERIOUS slope.

Sooooo...if you don't know, ask somebody that does. Or leave the door open for an INQUISITIVE person...

Copper Piping

2007-05-17T17:49:00.000-04:00

When your hot water tank finally goes...and it WILL go...this is the opportune time to replace your piping.

The 3 most common piping that HZG sees in homes is copper, galvanized and PVC.

Galvanized is commonly found in older homes and will eventually rust and rupture. If you are buying a home that has galvanized piping, realize that there will be an expense - if not now, down the road.

PVC piping is commonly found in "inexpensive" new homes and existing "I done repaired the plummin myself" homes. HZG HATES PVC plumbing - for it doesn't function as well as it should and will eventually give out.

Copper piping is the most reliable and functionable (is that a word?) out there. If your hot water tank goes bad, start here.

NOTE: If you own a rehab house, guard the copper piping like it's gold - it worth almost as much. In lesser income level areas, copper piping has been ripped out of homes and sold to scrappers.

Insulation Oops...and the mild aggravation that followed

2007-05-16T14:16:00.000-04:00

A walk-through of HZG's home after the dense-packing revealed that even my trainer needs additional training. Shame on me - shame on him.

As was stated earlier, the home was built in 1952. Weatherization during the fifties was no more than insulation - and very little at that. Architects did not view a home as a system - meaning the HVAC did not coordinate with the insulation.

Well...while dense-packing the walls (which the newbie did a good job), 2 exterior return air panning runs were dense-packed. The trainer walked through the home (as he should have), however did not check behind bookcases or in a closet. Both spots had return air grills.

Spot one was discovered when HZG junior went to feed his fish at the end of the night and discovered the fish was NOT happy with the cellulose covering his bowl. Upon moving the bookcase away from the wall - there was cellulose poofing out from the vent.

The second area was not discovered until the morning - when Mrs. HZG went to her closet to get out her shoes for work. Let's just say that she is NOT a fan of cellulose shoes.

The clean-up involves not only sucking the cell out of the wall cavity, but opening up the return air panning in the basement to remove fallen cell. This is a chore amongst itself.

At the ACI conference, a lecturer stated that he was one of the smartest people out there - because he made many mistakes and learned from them. We're well on our way...

Final Sidewall Numbers

2007-05-15T15:37:00.000-04:00

Well, we completed the lower level of sidewalls today. No injuries or deaths...

The most recent blower door reduction was 204 @ CFM50 for the lower level. This brings the overall reduction from 2,778 @ CFM50 to 2,344 @ CFM50. In essence, the sidewalls brought the blower door reduction down 434 @ CFM50. This reduction is equated to closing up a 4.5" x 4.5" hole in the wall to the outside.

So not only will the home retain heat and A/C better - the overall draftiness will be greatly reduced.

Remember, anything BELOW 2,750 @ CFM50 is to be optional air sealing. We are now below the optional.

The only thing that is "left" to do - and I haven't decided to at this stage - is to pump foam into the above grade masonry block to stop that air leakage and insulate to the frost line. The hesitancy is due to only having 3 small areas to insulate due to ground height (it's above almost to the sill plate).

Sidewalls and Air Sealing

2007-05-14T17:08:00.000-04:00

So far, so good.

The initial blower door reading this morning was 2,778 @ CFM50. Per Ohio Weatherization standards, 2,750 is OPTIONAL air sealing. To begin, this is a fairly tight house.

The crew worked on the upper level today - we're training semi-experienced personnel to dense-pack. We started on the upper level simply to give them additional experience on a ladder.

The final blower door for the day was 2,548 - a 230 CFM drop by simply insulating the walls.

We'll let you know tomorrow (pending completion; they're calling for thunderstorms) the final blower door reading.

Sidewalls and Air Tightness Experiment

2007-05-13T19:30:00.000-04:00

Tomorrow we will begin a training / experiment on what effect dense-packing sidewalls has on air leakage. We will run a pre-blower door, a blower door once the upper walls have been completed and then a final blower door once the lower level walls are done.

The home is a 1952 colonial style, approximately 2000 square feet. The attic has been air sealed and cellulose blown to an R40. The basement has had the addition crawl insulated, and the main portion has had the band joist stuffed and foamed. The exterior is vinyl sided; the interior is drywalled.

This past winter was frigid - however the gas bills during the heating season averaged $150 - proving the attic is the "place to be."

Over the next few days we'll check in with the blower door readings...

Glass Block Windows

2007-05-12T08:30:00.000-04:00

If you have a basement or crawl space with windows - hoppers, if you will - consider switching them to glass block. Glass block offers the obvious - safety. You can go with clear, frosted or glass angled, depending on your privacy needs. However they also offer energy efficiency, with an R-value of 1.96 - almost twice the R-value of a 1/8" pane of glass.

Glass block windows can come pre-made or custom made. HZG recommends that if you have 2 windows in a space, make one of the glass block structures vented. In our basement, we have 4 (2 per side) and we vented the two that were across from each other.

The cost of installing GBW ranges from $125 - $200 for non-vented, $175 - $225 for vented.

Besides the advantages listed above, the maintenance is great - no more cleaning the panes - just squirt with a hose.

Easy Energy Saver - Window Sash Locks

2007-05-11T19:19:00.000-04:00

If your home is one that is older (and has old windows), one of the easiest and least expensive energy savers is the window sash lock.

The window sash lock will ensure that the window is shut tight. It will do nothing regarding the leakiness of a window in general, however it WILL stop unnecessary air flow.

A sash lock runs about $3.00 and can be installed within 10 minutes.

Easy Speezy.

Stupid, Stupid, Stupid - Bad Room Temperature

2007-05-10T12:18:00.000-04:00

It must be getting close to the weekend, for my tolerance is once again dropping for stupid people. Of course, they never see my anger - just a Curious George smile.

Today's call was a "comfort" call. The client stated that their bedroom is never warm in the winter or cool in the summer. Typically, HZG would start in the basement and then go to the attic in search of the reason. However, this day I felt giddy and thought I'd start in the room itself.

Low and behold, the issue was simple...and stupid.

The bedroom was located close to the middle of the house, so I felt the supply run was not the issue. I was right, it wasn't. The bedroom has 2 supply registers for its size. Normally, that would be enough. Not in this room though. Here comes the stupidity...

There was a dog's bed (big fluffy circular bed) located directly OVER one of the registers. The other register was covered by a dresser. So, in effect, this room had NO registers.

I pointed this out to the idio...er...home owner. I suggested a new furniture arrangement.

Maybe it's the cost of gas ($3.07) that's getting to me when I drive to someone's house and find stupidity...

Weak Generators Kill Krendl's

2007-05-09T17:48:00.000-04:00

From the desk of "Don't believe everything a salesman tells you," come this little dity.

Today HZG was approached by a generator salesman. I explained that we had no need at this time for another generator, however he just kept on a selling. He explained that his generator could drive our Krendl's without a problem. I hate the uninformed.

I pointed out that his generator would blow our machine due to the lack of power. He disagreed. I then proceeded to get our supplier on the phone (speaker) and asked him the non-leading questions "What happens if we use a generator without the proper power output, and what is the proper output for our machines?" His response was that we'd have to buy a new Krendl. I thanked him and politely hung up.

I then looked at the salesman with his red face and said I would buy today if he put in writing that if our machine explodes that he would replace it at no cost. He stated that he couldn't do that. I stated that I couldn't buy it.

The salesman slithered to the door...

Opinions Vary...

2007-05-08T19:07:00.000-04:00

Today is a brief post - it's late and I'm tired (and sweaty)...attics in 90 degree heat are no fun.

The last sales call today was interesting. I was the last person to view this attic - and sometimes it's good to be last.

The various attic values given to this home owner were..."You should install up to R45", "You should install to R50", "You've only got 3" (when in reality it was 7").

Of course, I recommended installing to an R38 level and the home owner was shocked. I explained that I'd be more than happy to install an R50 and take his money - but I wouldn't do it.

Interesting Facts

2007-05-07T10:38:00.000-04:00

Courtesy of Green Builder Magazine...interesting environmental facts.

* Percent of US business schools that now require a course in environmental sustainability or corporate social responsibility: 54%, up from 34% in 2001.

* The warmest January ever recorded: January 2007, 1.53 degrees warmer than normal.

* The dollar equivalent of the amount of energy and cost savings delivered by the Energy Star Program in 2005 to US businesses, organizations and consumers: $12 billion.

* Typical number of diapers used per baby in the United States, depending on when toilet training occurs: 5,000 to 8,000.

* The US burns 10,000 gallons of gasoline a second.

* Amount of time it takes to change a lightbulb: 18 seconds. Amount of CO2 that can be averted each year when that incandescent lightbulb is replaced with a compact fluorescent: 104 pounds.

* If just 25 percent of US families used 10 fewer plastic bags per month, we would save more than 2.5 billion bags a year.

* Every ton of recycled office paper saves 380 gallons of oil.

More useless trivia for your next party...

Shower Curtains for a Healthier House?

2007-05-06T11:30:00.000-04:00

A shower curtain can contribute to a healthier house, you ask? Yes. Even more so if you own a rental property.

Shower curtains, when properly used, keep liquid moisture IN the shower - not letting the water hit walls and flooring. When the curtain is NOT used properly, well, you get moisture on the walls and floors, followed by BLACK MOLD. Actually, mildew - but tenants have a tendency to exaggerate a bit (sometimes a lot).

Make sure the curtain is attached with the proper amount of bar clips. This keeps the curtain from sagging. Mold-resistant curtain exist for under $15.00. When showering, make sure the curtain is pulled over completely so that it can adhere to the surround or tile. If you have a gap, water will find it and go outside your shower. After showering, make sure to shake the curtain before opening it back up - the curtain should not be left folded, for you are increasing the likelihood of shower-cheese.

HZG had to explain how to use a shower curtain to one of the dimmer tenants. It was hopeless - we're installing a plastic shield so she can splash away...

Roof Vents Used for Exhaust Venting

2007-05-04T18:17:00.000-04:00

Although a sealed termination kit is what is recommended for exhaust (bathroom and kitchen) venting, roof vents will do in a pinch. Many home owners want the cheapest route to go, and a roof vent can cost less that $12.00 versus a termination kit for $40.

The reason termination kits are recommended is that they do not share ANY air with the attic space - the exhaust is vented directly outside. The roof vent will allow the air to go outside, however their is residual exhaust left in the attic.

Today HZG experience a client that did not want those "zits" on his roof. Instead, he wanted us to run the exhaust to a gable - some 22' away. I explained that the best exhaust is the shortest exhaust, however he would have none of that. Soooo, I had him sign a form stating that he did not want the shortest vent run possible in favor of cosmetics.

Win some, lose some...

Sound & Cellulose

2007-05-03T17:13:00.000-04:00

One usage of cellulose that few people think of is as a sound barrier. Sure, cellulose is one of the best insulation R-value materials out there. However, it also has a sound barrier (retarder, more like) capability.

Today, HZG went to a local police / courthouse that was in need of a sound reducer. Whenever the client had a private meeting, well, it wasn't so private. This is where the art of dense-packing comes in.

Our proposal was to dense-pack the interior shared walls to reduce the sound infil - exfil-tration. There isn't a value to the R-factor, simply noise reduction.

Soooooo, if you have a room in your office or home that needs to be quieter, consider the option of cellulose in the wall.

A little gravel goes a long way...

2007-05-02T17:39:00.000-04:00

Idiots, idiots, idiots...

This is a quick blog - frustration is high...

I think HZG needs a vacation - or in need of refreshing clientele...

I ran into a builder that said, "We don't need gravel on the footer tile...code doesn't require it." Gravel is an excellent water diffuser - and will help prevent hydrostatic pressure. Damp proofing, waterproofing...it's only as good as the drainage down the wall.

This builder states that he's not worried. I'm drying to prevent future issues...however I will gladly take his money and say (in parenthesis)..."I told you so..."

Mold, and why I sometimes hate tenants...

2007-05-01T16:54:00.000-04:00

Today I received a phone call from one of my tenants..."I've got MOLD under my daughter's bed and in the bathroom. I had to buy 3 dehumidifiers. My rent will be short this month."

Of course, mold is to be taken seriously when it's real. The key word is "real."

We immediately (within 2 hours) went to her unit to discover a small mossy mold under her daughter's bed...reminiscent of a juice spill. Of course, this could never happen. In the bathroom, there was indeed "mildew" behind the toilet, next to the bathtub...with the look of "water splashing." The tenant thinks that since there is mold in the lower unit (it's unoccupied, in the state of demo) that the mold has come UP through the ceiling and into her daughter's room. Well, the ceiling in the room directly below hers was a nice, pristine white.

We are going to take care of the bathroom issue by installing a plastic shield directly up against the tub so that the tenant will not have to worry about splashing...and then cleaning.

On a side note, there were not any "new" dehumidifiers in the unit...Must be still in the car...

AMAZING what tenants come up with when rent is due (and overdue...)

Guerilla Customer Service

2007-04-30T11:21:00.000-04:00

"If your customer has a bad experience, they'll tell ten others. If they have a good experience, they'll tell one other."

Today's society is the weakest at customer service. Whether it's the age of the worker or the lack of training, customer service is what separates the competition (it also allows one to charge a premium for the satisfaction delivered.)

Today's opportunity was with a disgruntled customer, not satisfied with the weatherization job. The little things (a small paint chip, a piece of existing insulation hanging, air penetrating under an existing door) rolled into one large complaint. The client was just not happy after the sale with the follow through.

HZG listened (a crucial step) and then took the blame for not being more thorough. The customer was taken aback by the apology. I then explained that we want overly satisfied clients, for we count on the referral. We scheduled for my crew to go out and address her concerns. She asked "So how much more will this cost." Again, she was taken aback that I said "no charge", for she wasn't happy with the original service.

Hopefully we'll get her issues happily resolved. We sleep well at night knowing that we try are best (and 99% of the time are successful.)

ACI in Review; Some Stupid Chatter Amongst Brilliance

2007-04-29T18:28:00.000-04:00

All of the conferences' topics were not excellent; there was even an example of "just plain stupid".

There were 2 sessions that touched on a topic. One was excellent; one was pathetic. The first one had a great comment - "The difference between a pond and a basement is the drainage at the bottom." How true.

The other session had a comment stating "We try to get the basement as dry as possible by routing the water through it to a drain." Through it to a drain. Exposed. To a drain in the basement floor. Exposed.

Duhhhhh....

Sometimes conferences can expose that "maybe we aren't as dumb as we thought."

ACI in Review; Green Healthy Housing

2007-04-27T14:29:00.000-04:00

One of the more enjoyable courses was on "Is green housing healthier housing." It involved Dennis Creech from Earth Craft Homes, Attorney Tom Neltner as well as a gentleman from the EPA named Eric "Damned if I know his last name." While we are getting closer to building and weatherizing healthier homes, there is no consensus on what a green healthy home is.

A study was done using 5 organizations; LEED for Homes, NAHB Green Home Building Guidelines, Green Communities, ALA Health House and Energy Star Indoor Air Package. The categories rated were: Keep it Dry, Keep it Clean, Keep it Ventilated, Keep it Safe, Keep it Free of Contaminants, Keep it Pest Free and Keep it Well Maintained.

Across the board, no program passed on Keep it Safe. All passed on Keep it Well Maintained. ALA Health Homes passed on 6 of 7 while the next closest was Energy Star at 4.75 out of 7.

The gentleman from the EPA was very black and white - "it is what it is." The Energy Star program (www.energystar.gov) goes through more research than the others, however this makes some items slow to change. Indoor Air Quality is the main focus of the Air Package program.

Good stuff...

Back from ACI; Training "Nuggets"

2007-04-26T19:00:00.000-04:00

It's good to be back from the wonderful world of Affordable Comfort. As usual, each day's classes offered numerous "nuggets" (aka - things to remember). Over the next few days, I'll be sharing some of these nuggets with you - although some of you may already know them.

One of the topics covered crawl spaces and whether to vent or not to vent. HZG has his own thoughts on this; however it was interesting to hear others' opinions. One aspect of the session that I took as a nugget - due to the fact that I had not thought of it within my daily realm - was other areas climates.

A zone map was shown showing different treatments for different climates. HZG is in climate 5, which is entirely different from the others. It interesting to think of a climate that has a 95% constant RH - and how these weatherization professionals address their issues.

So while the course was on venting, the nugget was on regional issues. What works in my market would definitely not work in others...

Note: Thanks Allison for your comment - the response has been posted.

The Continual Learning Process

2007-04-23T09:46:00.000-04:00

Beginning tomorrow, HZG will be away attempting to further his knowledge of Weatherization. Tomorrow is the start of the Affordable Comfort Conference, this year in Cleveland.

In order for anyone or company to continue to grow, it is vital that we continue to learn. Every year, there is a new "nugget" to be had - just when you think you've got it - something changes in the industry to either give you a new perspective or completely change the way you think.

At the Affordable Comfort Conference, there are 3 classes that you can take in a given day (out of 50 or so choices.) Each year, we develop a new way of doing something. Upon my return, I'll share any nuggets that I receive with you - so we can learn together.

When the Ohio Department of Development makes this their main conference to sponsor - you know you will come out smarter (in theory) than when you went in.

Flower Beds and Drainage

2007-04-21T17:16:00.000-04:00

It's Spring, and HZG wants to tell you - don't make your flower beds stupidly high!

There are typically 2 courses of block above grade that can let water into your basement. Adding improper drainage with flower beds just adds to the likelihood of water penetration.

Too often landscapers (yes, pro landscapers) pile on the dirt and mulch, rising up against the foundation. In the industry, water that runs down your wall is considered a raintower if there are not deflections away from the foundation. If the flower bed is too high or angle improperly, the water will be forced against the wall. This hydrostatic pressure can force the water into your basement, affecting the air quality.

Every 2-3 years, HZG digs back in the beds, wire brushes and then adds an above grade block sealant to aid in the elimination of water penetration.

So, don't be dumb - you've been told.

Handy Dandy Foam Guns

2007-04-20T18:05:00.000-04:00

When using the cans of foam, you will notice that you will...

1) Go through many cans while plugging holes

2) Get the same size foam blurt, regardless of need

3) Waste what's left in the last can

If you are planning on using quite a bit of foam (attics, crawl spaces, band joists), invest in a $45 foam gun so that you can use larger cans, control the size of the foam blurt and not have to waste a can. Once you are done with the foam, you can leave the can on the gun.

Pass the gun from family to family to get the best value - and buy the $3 cleaner to clean the gun after 7-8 cans.

The ability to control the foam is the best feature...

Bowed Basement Wall Solution

2007-04-19T21:24:00.000-04:00

There are many solutions to fixing a bowed basement wall. The greater the bow, the greater the expense to repair.

If a home has a bowed wall that is no more than 2" difference when putting a level to it - steel I-beams are a good solution. There are many other ways of stopping the wall from moving, however the I-beam is true AND long term tested. The other ways, such as the epoxied band and the block pilaster - can work - but each has their drawbacks.

The I-beam method involves breaking up the floor along the wall (which you'd have to do anyway to put in an interior waterproofing system to relieve the pressure). The I-beam is anchored to the footer below the floor and attach to the floor joist above. It is then re-cemented into place (once the waterproofing system is in place). This method only allows the wall to move if the HOUSE moves too. Highly unlikely.

A reputable company can install an I-beam for under $200 per beam - with beams spread out every 4'. While an I-beam is not the prettiest, it can be buried under a finished basement stud build out.

Rebuilding a wall is much more expensive - about $230 per linear foot. I-beams are a nice solution.

Safety and Trenches - Help or Sacrifice Burying?

2007-04-18T17:14:00.000-04:00

If you are a homeowner and wish to dig a hole around your home's foundation, regardless of size - please...please...please...don't. Recently in the Cleveland area a man was crushed by a cave-in - and he was supposedly a "trained" professional.

Trenches and ditches should only be dug by professionals when they are to exceed 3' in depth. Why? Very few people have died from a broken leg. Trenches that cave in have a tremendous force - enough to snap bones and crush the human body. There is no such thing a safe hole - earth can move at any time.

A seasoned professional, when excavating to the footer (7' - 8' in depth), will shelve the banks so that if one level caves in there will not be a large amount of earth falling. If the size of the lot dictates a tighter hole without shelving, a seasoned pro will drive I-beams into the earth and place 1" plywood behind it - so that in the event of a cave in, the earth is caught by the plywood and I-beams.

The only time that you should get into a trench such as this is if it is securely braced - or you are luring your mother-in-law...just kidding...kind of...

Insulation Installer Idiocy

2007-04-17T15:52:00.000-04:00

Today's insulation call was one to address the winter ice dams. The client has always had massive icicles hanging from her gutters. As you may have read in a previous blog, ice dams can be caused by a lack of insulation or improper attic venting at the soffit. This attic had both...

Upon climbing up into the attic and noticing the well over 3" of fiberglass, HZG scurried to the soffit area to see what was there... How about a little bit of nothing. There was a soffit vent, however it was covered with well over 2" of fiberglass. Just enough to create damage. There was also zero ventilation in the attic anywhere else. So the minimal ventilation was covered by minimal insulation. Perfect.

Our recommendation to this homeowner is to install baffles, allowing the soffits to breath and then adding an additional R27 out to the edge. We would also install two gable vents to allow the air to rise up and out - not just up. Pretty simple, but apparently someone wasn't thinking at the time.

Magnetic Vent Covers

2007-04-16T10:48:00.000-04:00

There's an inexpensive product that exists to aid a homeowner in ensuring where heat and A/C shall go - it's the magnetic vent cover.

Yes, air movement will still occur in the duct work, however you can effectively control the temperature in any given room. Sometimes a bathroom gets too hot. Sometimes rooms with the closest runs to the furnace get too hot. Nothing can be done about natural heat rise; but directional heating can be controlled.

Why not just use vent levers? Dumb question if you've ever tried to use a vent lever. They don't shut all the way. These magnetic vent covers effectively seal off the remaining gaps of a closed vent.

To install, just purchase the size closest to your vent size and cut to exact size with scissors. Simply attach to the surface and you're done.

Selling Your Retrofited Home

2007-04-14T16:36:00.000-04:00

You've completed your remodel, fresh with new tile, siding, windows, etc. - everything a potential homeowner could want. It's priced high; but it's worth every penny and then some. Heck, market prices don't rise unless homes set a new market...and your house is every bit above and beyond the rest.

WAKE UP.

You must also realize that the market may NOT be ready to be increased and new pricing set. HZG believes it is OK to go and attempt to set the market by listing at a high price - you just may get it. You must also know that if you're not getting the showings or the offers, it may just be time to lower the price.

It doesn't need to be lowered dramatically (unless you were stupid high...I've seen that). A $5,000 reduction may just be the ticket. Real Estate agents, when pulling listings for their buyers, typically pull at "magical numbers". This means "up to", such as $100,000 to $180,000. Say your house is listed at $184,900. "Your house is listed at $184,900." OK, that was me being a smart ass. A $5,000 reduction brings the price to $179,900 - and into a new range of listings being pulled.

Some believe that you should set the price for a quick sale, so that your money can be turned quicker and you stop interest, utility and maintenance fees. Some believe you should hold out for top dollar, for top dollar will cover those fees and make up for the lost cash time. HZG believes in the middle ground - set it high, adjust it quickly.

Soil Stack Penetrations

2007-04-13T13:25:00.000-04:00

This has got to be the most exciting topic HZG has talked about...today...

The most common attic penetration in homes is the soil stack. During construction, the builder cuts a square in the attic floor (top floor's ceiling) and installs the round soil stack. Insulation may or may not have been blown at that time. Regardless, you have a round peg in a square hole - usually enough for a nice soil stack air loss effect.

ANY home owner can seal this off with a $7.00 can of foam, unless the builder got extremely carried away with the saw. At that point, you would need a piece of foam board and caulk to go along with the foam.

Easy speazy - fix it yourself.

Basement Poured Wall Crack Remedy

2007-04-12T13:11:00.000-04:00

Poured wall basements are becoming somewhat of a staple in the housing industry due to their speed of install and limited leaks. When they do leak however, there are a few remedies that work, the most notable being epoxy injection. There are many benefits to the poured wall, along with many negatives. We will focus on the crack issue at this time.

HZG recommends a qualified contractor to epoxy inject a wall, for if it is done by "Joe Homeowner", it will likely fail. Maybe not immediately, however eventually.

Here are the basic steps for successful low-pressure crack injection. Keep in mind, however, that the type of epoxy or polyurethane used and the time required for injection will vary with each job depending on the crack width, wall thickness, and other conditions.

Install injection ports: Surface ports (short rigid-plastic tubes with a flat base) serve as handy entryways for getting the repair material into the crack. They eliminate the need to drill into the concrete, reducing labor time and cleanup. The base of the port is placed directly over the crack and bonded to the surface with an epoxy paste. A general rule-of-thumb is to space the ports an inch apart for each inch of wall thickness.

Seal the surface: Use an epoxy adhesive (such as Emecole 301) to seal over the surface ports and exposed cracks. The paste cures in about 20 to 45 minutes to provide a surface seal with excellent bond characteristics that holds up under injection pressures. The entire exposed crack is covered with the paste, leaving only the port holes uncovered.

Inject the crack: Begin injecting at the lowest port on the wall and continue until the epoxy or urethane begins to ooze out of the port above it. That's the visual sign that the crack has been filled to that level. Plug the first port with the cap provided and move up to the next port, repeating this procedure until the entire crack has been filled with epoxy or urethane. Let the compression spring on the dispensing tool push the material into the crack using slow, constant pressure. This will reduce the possibility of leaks or blow-outs and allow time for the repair material to fully penetrate the crack.

Remove the ports: Allow 24 to 48 hours at room temperature for the epoxy or polyurethane to cure and penetrate into the cracks. The injection ports can then be removed by striking them with a trowel or hammer. If appearance is an issue, the epoxy surface seal can be chipped away or ground off with a sanding disk. Another option is to use a surface seal that can simply be peeled off the wall after the repair is fully cured. Emecole manufactures a polyurea-based seal (Emecole 322) that develops a strong enough bond to allow the injector to do the work, but is flexible and can be peeled away when the job is done.

Stupid People with a Wet Basement

2007-04-11T17:43:00.000-04:00

From the files of, "you've got to be kidding me"...

Today's waterproofing call involved a frantic homeowner that says she's got a puddle on the floor and the water looks rusty. Upon arrival, the walls are bone dry and yes, there is a puddle on the floor - approximately 1' from the wall. Apparently, water jumps from the wall to a random spot on the floor.

Yes, the water had a rust color to it...yellowish to be exact. I noticed an animal cage close by and asked if she owned a pet. "Oh yes, I have a brand new puppy. He's outside right now." I asked if she ever keeps the dog in the basement...hoping she could put 2 and 2 together. Straight faced, she said "Yes, during the day when I'm not home." She still didn't get it. I asked her to go and smell the puddle. This lady would do anything...if it wasn't raining I would have asked her to wash my car as part of the inspection, but I digress... The lady smells the puddle and says, "It smells kind of like pee."

I'm still waiting for the light to go on above her head, however it doesn't until I say, "There you have it! It's your dog..."

Boy did she feel stupid...I think...then again, maybe not.

Warranties and Guarantees

2007-04-10T14:44:00.001-04:00

In many industries, there are warranties and guarantees that go along with a product and service. These guarantees are only as good as the company servicing them, as well as the stipulations that cover them. The key here is, there is no such thing as a free lunch. Wheter it's energy savings or home retrofits - you typically get what you pay for...

When talking to a customer about a warranty or guarantee, HZG is explicit in the details as to how the warranty functions. It is important to know that two parties are involved and have responsibilities for a warranty - the holder and the servicer. There are many asterisks involved and it is imperative that you know what they are - such as if it is a waterproofing warranty, plants, sidewalks, driveways, etc. are not covered. If the issue below ground is something else not covered by the warranty, the client would pay. If a crack is greater than 1/16", the warranty is not covered due to coverage...you get the idea.

The following is a banter from the movie Tommy Boy that best reflects warranties in our industry...

Tommy: Let's think about this for a sec, Ted, why would somebody put a guarantee on a box? Hmmm, very interesting.

Ted Nelson, Customer: Go on, I'm listening.

Tommy: Here's the way I see it, Ted. A guy puts a fancy guarantee on a box 'cause he wants you to feel all warm and toasty inside.

Ted Nelson, Customer: Yeah, makes a man feel good.

Tommy: 'Course it does. Why shouldn't it? Ya figure you put that little box under your pillow at night, the Guarantee Fairy might come by and leave a quarter, am I right, Ted?

Ted Nelson, Customer: What's your point?

Tommy: The point is, how do you know the fairy isn't a crazy glue sniffer? "Building model airplanes" says the little fairy, well, we're not buying it. He sneaks into your house once, that's all it takes. The next thing you know, there's money missing off the dresser and your daughter's knocked up, I've seen it a hundred times.

Ted Nelson, Customer: But why do they put a guarantee on the box?

Tommy: Because they know all they sold ya was a guaranteed piece of shit. That's all it is, isn't it? Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed, I will. I got spare time. But for now, for your customer's sake, for your daughter's sake, ya might wanna think about buying a quality product from me.

Ted Nelson, Customer: [pause] Okay, I'll buy from you.

Trailer Trash Idiots

2007-04-09T16:32:00.000-04:00

With apologies to people that are not trash but live in trailers, this article is NOT for you...

Following up with "more idiots that shouldn't own homes", today's call came from a true trailer trashette. These people need a good old fashioned crack to the head...

"My trailer roof is leaking, and your company was out here!" Of course, HZG has learned not to expect the worst anymore, for issues are generally NOT our issue. If it's our problem, fine...however 99.9% of the time, well, you'll see...

We completed the work at this person's trailer, and one of the services was applying a coat of sealer (see previous article) to the roof. In the file, it was noted that the ceiling was in poor shape and had leaked in the past - per homeowner description.

Upon our arrival to the site, we put up a ladder and inspected the roof. Well, her boyfriend, we're told, went up to inspect why our sealer was leaking. The rocket scientist brought up "some tar" - which incidentally should NOT be used on a trailer - to correct the issue. Well, he put tar all over, and left his tar footprints behind - all over the trailer. He also walked on the roof - not the bracing or planking. Not our issue...

The trash, er, lady was astounded that we weren't taking responsibility. We showed her the footprints and she said that "I'll have his A$$ when he gets home toonight."

Upon this intellectual conversation, we left...heads held high...

High Efficiency Furnaces

2007-04-07T16:30:00.000-04:00

HZG had his personal furnace go out this past year...it was operating at as a 60+ furnace. Extremely wasteful; however the HZG family's home has been used as a continual test case of energy efficient practices to see what happens after an energy savings measure is instituted. Next on our list is dense-packing our sidewalls (currently empty). The worst gas bill this past winter (with all the improvements we've done to date) was $189. By I digress...

When your furnace goes bad, it's time to evaluate whether to put in an 80+ or a 90+ furnace. HZG recommends a 90+ if you plan on living in the home for more than 5 years and you are in a climate (such as Ohio) with colder than average winters. If you own a rental property, before putting in a 90+ furnace, make sure it is an upper end rental...reasons to follow.

80% or high efficiency?
The EPA requires furnaces to have at least a 78% AFUE (annual fuel-utilization rating). This means that a minimum of 78% of the fuel consumed is directly converted to heat your home. The rest escapes through the flue, literally up the chimney. Currently, the most efficient furnaces you can buy have a 97% AFUE. If your furnace is more than 15 years old, it probably has an AFUE of only 65%, so it's easy to see how improvements in energy conservation can have a direct impact on your fuel bill.

90+ furnaces are directly vented to the outside via plastic piping, avoiding the chimney altogether. The furnace needs to be checked yearly, for it has many higher tech parts than an 80+. Also, the furnace filter MUST be changed frequently.

An 80+ furnace is the best bet for short occupancy, for the savings will not be recovered quickly with the 90+. For lower end rentals, the 80+ is the best bet for tenants are rough with everything - including a furnace. If they are in charge of changing filters, they won't... For higher end rentals, the 90+ furnace can be advertised as a benefit to the prospective tenant.

Combat Global Warming

2007-04-06T09:40:00.000-04:00

The following are easy ways for the average homeowner to help reduce global warming. Easy speazy.

1) Replacing regular light bulbs with compact fluorescent light bulbs will save about 300 pounds of carbon dioxide a year because they require 60% less energy to produce the same amount of light

2) Cleaning a dirty furnace filter or replacing it can save 350 pounds of carbon dioxide per year

3) Wrapping a water heater in an insulation blanket can save 1,000 pounds of carbon dioxide over the course of a year

4) Setting the water heater thermostat to no higher than 120 degrees F can save 550 pounds per year

5) Properly insulating walls and ceilings can save 2,000 pounds of carbon dioxide annually

6) Caulking and weather-stripping can save 1,700 pounds of carbon dioxide in a year.

Through these simple techniques, we reduce carbon dioxide emissions by approximately 5,900 pounds per year, per house.

Try one...you'll like it.

Idiots should not own homes...

2007-04-05T09:01:00.000-04:00

Today is a rant about idiots that own homes (and shouldn't). There will be no names, towns or agency names used to protect the innocent. This is a real life scenario.

A phone call was received by a councilman in a neighborhood from homeowner stating her furnace was not working due to a bad contractor. The contractor was part of a weatherization program that had completed work on this person's furnace that day.

The councilman then did the next best lazy thing...he called the Mayor of the city.

The Mayor did the next best lazy thing...he called the Executive Director (ED) of the program.

The ED of the program did the next best lazy thing...he call the heating contractor's office (at 9:00 PM at night...no one was there...go figure). He then called the program Director at 9:30 PM, 9:32 PM and 9:35 PM...on his cell phone instead of his home phone. No answer (but he could have received an answer if he had tried the home phone...)

So then the ED weighs his options...should he send the client to a Marriott to stay? Should he go over to see exactly what the issue is? The ED decides to go to the clients home. The client takes the ED over to the furnace area and states that she thinks that the furnace switch (a couple of feet above her head out of arms reach) was not turned on. So the ED grabs a broom and flicks a switch. Problem solved.

To enhance the story, in the morning the PD gets a phone call from the ED reaming him a new place to poop.

This is a story about brains and the lack of usage of them. The home owner could have turned on the switch by herself. The Councilman could have inquired as to what the problem may have been and suggested calling a heating contractor if he couldn't solve it over the phone. The ED could have done exactly what the councilman could have done. Instead, no one thinks and the PD gets a reaming. Nice.

Sorry for the rant. Regular programming to return soon...pending stupidity.

Weatherizatio Training Center

2007-04-04T10:44:00.000-04:00

The weatherization training center in Ohio is COAD (Corporation of Ohio Appalachian Development.) Any contractor that states they are weatherization professionals should 1) Know about COAD, 2) Have been certified in various course by COAD and 3) Continue their education. If your potential weatherization contractor looks stupified...well, he / she probably is. The following is taken directly from COADs website for you to get a brief background on what COAD is...

Goals: Provide affordable and effective training that enables community action agencies to provide quality services to serve the low-income residents of Ohio, and serve as a resource for technical consultation and trouble-shooting.

Ohio Weatherization Training Center (OWTC): COAD operates the OWTC under a contract with the Ohio Department of Development. The first OWTC opened in 1980, and as we celebrate our 27th anniversary this year we will continue to strive to improve the training and technical services we offer in the state of Ohio.

The OWTC offers both packaged and custom training courses on state-of-the-art building diagnostic, weatherization and heating system services and procedures to community-based organizations, local governments and private contractors throughout Ohio. Over 14,000 students have attended courses offered by the OWTC. Contact Mike Keyes (mkeyes@coadinc.org) for more information regarding consumer education training, Russ Bogue (rbogue@coadinc.org) for heating classes and related training, and G.H. Runevitch (grunevitch@coadinc.org) for training regarding home inspection and weatherization. To learn more about the OWTC and its current courses, click here: http://www.odod.state.oh.us/CDD/oee/res_owtc.htm

Mobile Home Roof Coating

2007-04-03T11:35:00.000-04:00

Today we are covering briefly the coating of a mobile home, a.k.a. trailer, roof coating. In weatherization, sometimes you must apply a roof sealer to help protect the shell of the trailer from leaking. This process is a great fix on newer trailers; a quick fix "waste of time" for beat up trailers. Yesterday, we encountered a "waste of time" trailer.

First, the roof must be scraped and checked for obvious voids. You must ensure that the roof shell is dry, for the sealer will not stick properly...at all. This particular trailer had a bent roof, cracks, footprints...you name it. Once the roof is dry, apply the sealer evenly. The forecast for weather must be dry for at least 24 hours past installing and maintain a temperature of at least 50 degrees F.

This trailer that we applied a sealer to will leak in the near future, however no money was to be ponied up to fix the roof properly. We did this job as a favor, with a large asterisk beside it.

Affordable Comfort Conference

2007-04-02T14:42:00.000-04:00

Today's post is strictly an advertisement for a good show that happens yearly in the weatherization field. If you are green, want to be green, or just interested in insulation; this is the show.

Top 10 Reasons to Attend the ACI Home Performance Conference

If you have a stake in residential health & safety, durability, comfort, and energy efficiency, you cannot afford to miss this conference. Here's why:

Kudos for this Conference
"If you want to transfer an idea, a practice, a change of attitude to the home performance industry, ACI is the best place to start. If it becomes accepted at ACI, over time, you see it become accepted in the industry, in training programs, in trade press, in advice to consumers, and in building practice. In terms of organization, ACI is the standard to which I compare other conferences. Few measure up."
Don Fugler, Canada Mortgage & Housing Corporation
"This conference is the melting pot for the most dedicated practitioners in the nation. This is where everything begins and ends; the best information from the best people is right here. These are the people who have the highest concern to make changes, from the level of policy, right down to the level of the practitioner, and to see building science move forward."
John Tooley, Senior Building Science Consultant, Advanced Energy
I gain access to a lot of diverse groups: from folks who've got mud on their boots, to great vendors who are selling products that I haven't heard about, and it helps me do my job better. The people here are diverse in terms of what their niche is in the building science community, but the common thread is, you come to this conference if you really want to advance your knowledge, and take those lessons learned back, and do better work. We've changed our whole approach as a result of our involvement with ACI.
Dennis Creech, Executive Director, Southface Energy Institute
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Thanks to Our Sponsors, Exhibitors, & Partners!
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1. Brand New Session Content. With global warming, peak oil, and the cost of energy on everyone's minds, this year's agenda is geared to give you tools to meet these challenges and explore the role of the whole house approach. One track looks at Greenhouse Gas Emissions and Going Green. A session in the Healthy Homes track asks, "Is Green Housing Healthier Housing?" and a session in the Program Productivity & Impact tract discusses "Maintaining Operational Efficiencies As You Scale Up." In addition to exciting new content, there are updated and timeless sessions that address key issues and opportunities. You'll still find the solid technical fundamentals that are so important to new staff and management. If you are a repeat attendee, check out the conference agenda for ACI Veterans.
2. Awesome Presenters. More than 170 presenters will share their expertise. Learn from and interact with some of the top presenters, leaders, and experts in North America, including Rana Belshe, Michael Blasnik, Terry Brennan, Anthony Cox, Skip Hayden, Rick Karg, Joe Kuonen, Joe Lstiburek, Mac Pearce, Betsy Pettit, John Proctor, Virginia Salaras, Tamasin Sterner, John Straube, and John Tooley.
3. Top Notch Participants. The people and organizations who attend the ACI Home Performance Conference combine first hand experience of how buildings work, why they fail, and how to achieve home performance that integrates health, safety, durability, and energy efficiency - all critical components of a sustainable future. Their years of experience in designing, implementing, and evaluating whole house practices are best represented at this conference. The ACI annual conference has a reputation for being the destination for committed professionals, and is a primary event for networking, renewing old connections, and making new ones.
4. Continuing Education Units & Certifications. Take advantage of this opportunity to update your credentials and certifications. CEUs are available from
AIA
ASHI
BPI
EEBA
Minnesota Residential Building Officials
NACHI
NARI
NATE
Ohio Residential Building Officials
Ohio Residential Plan Examiners
Ohio Residential Building Inspectors
Ohio HVAC
Ohio Hydronics
and RESNET. Click here to learn what credits are available for each session. BPI in-field and written certification testing will be available. Email info@BPI.org or call 1-877-274-1274 for more information. Rater certification testing is also available. For further info, contact Terry Smith at terry.smith@installed.net or 614-351-1439.
5. Half Day & Full Day Short Courses. On Monday and Thursday afternoon you can dig in for an intensive learning experience with more than 50 Short Courses. Just as a sample, check out the session descriptions for MFD 01N The Garage Connection, MFD 04N Techniques for Using Spray Foam & Sealants, MAM 19 Windows: Sorting Through the Options, MAM 20 Training that Sticks, MPM 12 Sales Boot Camp for Whole House Services, ThPM 03 Sell Solutions, Don't Buy Problems, and ThPM 08 Practical In-house Monitoring for Assessment & Feedback. You can view all short courses by clicking here.
6. There's something for everyone on the agenda. With 104 sessions in the core conference alone, you may feel like a kid in a candy store! Tailored agendas have been provided for 27 different fields - some recently added include Sales & Marketing Staff, Utility Staff, Affordable Housing Providers, and Women and Minority Business Owners. Use the drop down box at the top right corner of each agenda page to find the sessions of interest to you.
7. Flexible Scheduling that Suits your Time Availability. If you can't spare the whole week, you can come for a half day, full day, or for the core conference. Conference pricing covers all options!
8. It's a Cost Effective Training & Conference Opportunity The conference has so much to offer, it pays to send more than one person from your organization. One person can't get to every session of interest, or network with every person you want to reach. You can increase the impact for your organization when more than one person attends. Group discounts are available when you send three or more people from the same organization.
9. Visit an Exciting Tradeshow. Find effective solutions and build relationships at the two-day trade show. You'll have access to the nation's leading manufacturers showcasing cutting edge products and technology. Meet face to face with companies who provide the tools and services you need to work smarter! See who is exhibiting.
10. Evening Sessions, Special Events and Fun Things to Do. ACI has planned lots for you to do during evening hours, as well as before and after the core conference. Check out the Tuesday evening Forum - Aggressive Residential Efficiency for Greenhouse Gas Reduction, Friday's full day special event Profit with Home Performance, the Thursday afternoon Cleveland Renewables Tour, and more on our Special Features page.
Haven't registered yet? Register Online Now!
Who Should Attend this Conference? Program implementers, home performance contractors, weatherization providers, administrators, trainers / educators, utility representatives, energy efficiency advocates, green champions, policy makers, energy raters, building scientists, design professionals, home inspectors, product manufacturers, builders, remodelers, HVAC contractors & installers, insulation & air sealing contractors, code officials, and others concerned with health, comfort, safety, and energy efficiency in homes.

email: aci@affordablecomfort.org
phone: 800-344-4866
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Insulation Machines

2007-03-31T14:51:00.000-04:00

There are many types of insulation machines, from the small portable blowers that you can rent from major home improvement stores, to the large truck mountables. The larger truck mounts are more powerful and less prone to issues.

For those that want to insulate their attics on their own, the rented units do an adequate, although not a great, job. The type of machine that our company uses is the Krendl. The Krendl has a long history of success behind it. Behind every success is a company that can service it. We are lucky enough to have a major player in Ohio, Applied Energy Products of Canton. They offer outstanding service, and our Krendl has yet to be down more than one day for a tune-up.

When evaluating doing it yourself versus hiring out, remember that a good weatherization company will go the extra step of air sealing. It also has a better machine (able to reach tough places) and can obtain cellulose for a lesser of a cost. So you may end up paying more; but the job done by a true weatherization company will outperform and out-save the average person.

Compact Fluorescent Bulbs

2007-03-29T10:33:00.000-04:00

HZG has touched on CFLs in the past; however in this time of "Al Gore", California legislation to eliminate incandescent bulbs, etc...it's time to address the effectiveness of the bulbs again. Thanks to Energy Star for providing the following information.

ENERGY STAR qualified CFLs:
* Use at least 2/3 less energy than standard incandescent bulbs to provide the same amount of light, and last up to 10 times longer.

* Save $30 or more in energy costs over each bulb’s lifetime

* Generate 70 percent less heat, so they’re safer to operate and can cut energy costs associated with home cooling.

* In addition to other quality requirements, must turn on instantly, produce no sound, and fall within a warm color range or be otherwise labeled as providing cooler color tones.

* Are available in different sizes and shapes to fit in almost any fixture, for indoors and outdoors.

Where to Use CFLs:
* To get the most energy savings, replace bulbs where lights are on the most, such as your family and living room, kitchen, dining room, and porch.

* Some CFLs have trouble operating in enclosed fixtures. Check the CFL's packaging for any restrictions on use.

How to Choose the Right Light:
* Matching the right CFL to the right kind of fixture helps ensure that it will perform properly and last a long time. Read the packaging to be sure that the type you choose works for the fixture you have in mind. For example:

* If a light fixture is connected to a dimmer or 3-way switch, select CFLs that are labeled for this use

* For recessed fixtures, it is better to use a 'reflector' CFL versus a standard-shaped bulb.

* Choose the color that works best for you. For example, while most CFLs are created with warm colors for your home, you could choose a cooler color for task lighting.

* To get a CFL with the right amount of light, choose one that offers the same lumen rating as the light you are replacing. The higher the lumen rating, the greater the light output. Use the table below to see how lumens can generally be compared.

Wet Basement Seam Issue

2007-03-28T15:51:00.000-04:00

Today, HZG got a little dirty. OK, a lot dirty.

I was called to the home site by a prominent builder to help diagnose a basement issue that had been worked on in the past by a different company. The first issue was easy to diagnose; it was hydrostatic pressure coming from earth over waterproofing. There was approximately 6" of earth over the board with no waterproofing - easy to fix.

The second leak (see picture) was one of those "bad feeling" leaks. Digging down at the corner, I noticed that the protection board butted at the inside corner - not overlapping. Water was able to hit the corner of the block with no issue, traveling down to the footer and into the basement. Without putting an inside system in, the only recourse is to excavate down to the footer and re-apply properly. Major mess; major expense.

The moral of this story is that the job needs to be done right the first time.

Hole Cutters

2007-03-27T12:24:00.000-04:00

What a useful tool the hole cutter is. For those of you not familiar, you can pick up one of these items for as inexpensively at $5.00 or as much as $50. Both price ranges can be picked up from your local or chain hardware store.

Having trouble determining if you have insulation in your walls? Buy one of these hole cutters, insert into your drill - then find an inconspicuous place to drill.

HZG recommends:

1) The 2" hole cutter - large enough that you can plainly see inside of a wall cavity; small enough that you can plug with a Styrofoam plug and spackle.

2) Choosing a closet that shares an outside wall. This way you can easily see the wall while not trying to match wall textures in an interior.

The only downside is the dust - so if you have issues with breathing, wear a dust mask.

A great tool - and a lot less expensive than an infrared camera.

Fun Energy Facts

2007-03-26T12:23:00.000-04:00

Now that I have the stink off me (see yesterday's writing), I thought I'd share some fun energy facts with you:

* Amount of extra gasoline consumed in the US due to low tire pressure: 730 million gallons per year

* Amount that fuel efficiency can be increased by driving 65 miles per hour instead of 75: 15%

* Average life expectancy of aluminum windows: 15 to 20 years. For wood windows: 30 years

* Increase in the amount of garbage produced by Americans between Thanksgiving and New Years: 25%

* Percent by which a radiant barrier in the roof can reduce heat gain: 25%

* Amount of CO2 that Americans generate during the holidays just from shipping: 600 million tons - more than the entire annual output of Canada

That's it for today!

Trash Dumpsters

2007-03-25T19:14:00.000-04:00

Today was a "yuck" day. Every spring, if you are in the rental business, is trash pick-up day. I have a block of duplexes that in the winter do very poorly. By very poorly, I mean that people cannot seem to find the dumpster no matter what. So every spring, once the snow melts, is pick-up the trash day.

I'm constantly trying to think of how to stop this issue to no avail. The city won't pick up due to the volume of homes, or apartments. The trash company won't put the dumpster in the best location due to the driveway narrowness. The tenants are lazy. Bad combination.

So...owning apartments is great, but sometimes you need to get a little dirty. Kind of like today...

Above Grade Insulation Needs

2007-03-23T13:39:00.000-04:00

We've addressed this before...however pictures sometimes are worth 1,000 words. The area at the band joist / above grade block is one of the least efficient areas for heat retention.

The infrared photos attached is a prime example of the glowing heat loss of the home. The best thing that I've recommended is the masonry foam core insulation, 3 courses down (2 courses exposed). This raises the R-value of the block from approximately 2.4 to approximately 8.2. Energy savings at its finest.

Waterbeds and Energy

2007-03-22T17:30:00.000-04:00

A waterbed typically uses nearly as much electricity as a refrigerator, costing about $77 per year to heat. The 17 million waterbeds in this country consume the electrical output of five large power plants.

If you have a waterbed, here are some tips to reduce its energy costs:
1) Make the bed and cover it completely with a thick quilt. A quilted cover can halve your waterbed's heating bill. Insulate.

2) Use one-inch foam or reflective wrap beneath and around the sides of the mattress (make sure the reflector is rated for your water heater temperature).

3) Plug the heater into a timer and set it to turn off an hour or two before you get up and to come back on a few hours before you go to bed.

Personally, I like a hard mattress for spine reasons. Had a waterbed; surfed too much when sleeping.

Electrical Wiring Booby-Traps

2007-03-21T14:38:00.000-04:00

Today's attic inspection was one for the books. I felt like a soldier going through a mine field. I have never seen this many wires running through an attic. The picture above is about 1/50th of what I saw today.

Part of being involved in an energy field is not just knowing how to weatherize, it's knowing how to diagnose a cluster - ****. This was a mess...

This client had run speaker wiring, outlet wiring, security system wiring, can lighting wiring, wiring for wiring, wiring for looks...you get the picture. Besides the obvious penetration issues, there is the extra effort to secure the wiring out of the way - as well as pricing the job extra due to the time involved avoiding it.

The largest issue I saw was a security wiring bundle running down the chimney chase way (6" x 8'). I pointed out to the client that I could follow the wiring throughout the house, from attic to basement.

Bottom line...be careful in attics; there are mine fields everywhere...

The Blower Door - Revisited

2007-03-20T17:47:00.000-04:00

We've touched on the blower door in the past - it's time to touch on it again. The blower door is a great tool to detect air leakage, NOT insulation.

The blower door is used to set the bar for the tightness of a home. A home should not be completely tight - however is should be to a certain level. 2,750 CFM50 is where "optional" air sealing begins.

The last house I tested came in at 2,195 at CFM50 with an A-ring. The clients were astounded when I said they had minimal issues. Minor caulking to be done along the sill plate in the basement - but that was it. The biggest issue the client had was with a hole cut into a wall - this had nothing to do with air sealing.

So...the blower door is a tool, not an all-saving answer...

Xypex Basement Waterproofing Paint

2007-03-19T15:48:00.000-04:00

Normally HZG doesn't recommend a specific product or brand. Today is not one of those days.

Too often we hear the words "Dry - Lock" when discussing sealing a basement's wet walls. Dry - Lock is little more than a strong interior paint. I personally despise it, for "a", it masks the problem; "b", if there is a water issue it will eventually bleed through and "c", it will discolor.

Xypex is a good waterproofing agent for basements. It is a little more expensive, but the results are much more satisfying. Xypex MUST be applied when the walls are wet; this gives it a serious leg up on any other product. It typically comes with a 5-year warranty - more than most interior products. It will not last forever, however it is the best line of defense for continual wet walls.

Vermiculite Insulation

2007-03-18T10:47:00.000-04:00

Vermiculite insulation can been seen in many attics of older homes. This material, while not providing the best R-value, is very fire resistant. With the discovery of the hazards of asbestos, vermiculite is now a dangerous material that will never be installed in attics again. The best advice HZG can give to you if you discover that you have vermiculite in your attic is:

DO NOT DISTURB IT. Any disturbance has the potential to release asbestos fibers into the air. Limiting the number of trips you make to your attic and shortening the length of those trips can help limit your potential exposure. EPA and ATSDR strongly recommend that:

• Vermiculite insulation be left undisturbed in your attic. Due to the uncertainties with existing testing techniques, it is best to assume that the material may contain asbestos.

• You should not store boxes or other items in your attic if retrieving the material will disturb the insulation.

• Children should not be allowed to play in an attic with open areas of vermiculite insulation.

• If you plan to remodel or conduct renovations that would disturb the vermiculite, hire professionals trained and certified to handle asbestos to safely remove the material.

• You should never attempt to remove the insulation yourself. Hire professionals trained and certified to safely remove the material.

Green Energy Facts

2007-03-17T15:44:00.001-04:00

Fun Energy facts, supplied by Green Builder Magazine...

* Number of times you could circle the globe each year with discarded magazines, by laying them end to end: 60

* Percent of energy that is wasted by air infiltration and exfiltration in most homes: 40% - 50%

* Amount of idling time needed to warm up a car, even on winter days: 30 seconds

* Percent by which humans are consuming the planet's resources faster than the earth can renew them: 25%

* One reason noncommercial US vehicles are using at least 938 million more gallons of gasoline annually than they did in 1960: drivers are heavier, on average, by 25 pounds

* Amount that energy consumption could be cut over the next 15 years, if households and industry use current products and technology, and government encourages efficiency and savings instead of consumption: 50%

* Number of Boeing 747 airplanes that could be built each year with aluminum from cans discarded by the US airline industry: 58

Fun facts - we can all do a little better.

Air Nailers

2007-03-16T17:16:00.000-04:00

When you are working with a large quantity of wood - such as installing a 7,800 square foot ceiling - an air nailer is indispensable.

Air nailers use a compressor to drive nails "rapid fire" to connect two surfaces. When purchasing a nailer, it is important to purchase a quality gun - one that can connect two hard surfaces together without jamming the gun.

Nailers are fast and easy to use - and you can pick a reasonably good one up for $200 - $300. The labor saved will easily cover the cost of the tool with the first average sized job.

The also make great weapons...just kidding...

Frustrating Job Change

2007-03-15T17:41:00.000-04:00

This issue can apply to anyone, not just HZG. It's the "so here's how the job is going to go and the price that goes with it. Oh wait, you mean we have to do it a different way that will add 3 days to the job?"

Yes, that is what happened today. The photo is not HZG - but it represents how I felt (on the inside of course; never let a customer see your reaction.)

We were in the process of installing a ceiling in a warehouse when the electrician came up and said, "You can't move the conduit." Well, that's all fine and dandy except that we priced the job based upon not having to make a million (or 2 million) cuts. The extra cuts will add 2-3 days to the job (and 2-3 days worth of a boom rental - 23 foot high ceiling).

I'm still debating whether to go back to the client and charge additional funds. My quote stated what we were going to do - however it didn't get to the specifics of "what would happen if we couldn't do the job based on another contractor."

With this being said - lesson well learned - be EXPLICIT with all quotes - and don't get to angry with yourself if it doesn't go your way.

Telescoping Ladders

2007-03-14T09:54:00.000-04:00

Have you ever seen a product that you thought was neat, but were skeptical at the same time? The telescoping ladder was my most recent intrigue / doubt.

The concept of the tool is great. Yes, a ladder is a tool. A 3' tall ladder than can expand to 12'. Compact enough to put in the backseat of a car, yet capable of reaching most attics. After getting tired of lugging a ladder around on sales calls, I finally broke down and spent the $170 and purchased one. The results are...

It's worth the investment if...

1) You need the space savings (I did)

2) You are tired of lugging a ladder around (I was)

3) The attics necessary to get into have a minimal lip to lay the expanded ladder up against (most do)

4) You are tired of manipulating a ladder around tight corners (I was)

It's not worth the investment if...

1) You are a big person (more than 225 pounds). The ladder is safety rated, but it get a bit of a bow in it at heavier weights.

2) You work in a tar or "goo" environment. The telescoping ladder slides within itself - so anything sticking to the ladder will gum up the works.

3) You need the ladder in areas where you cannot lay it up against something.

Overall - worth the investment.

Downspout Lines

2007-03-13T17:05:00.000-04:00

HZG witness today one of the worst downspout line installations of all time. The homeowner wanted to blame the waterproofing for his wet basement. However, upon noticing water stains around the downspout leaders we popped the caps. Low and behold, standing water in the downspout line.

Upon digging the lines up and seeing the puddles of water around all the broken lines (standing water, freezing), we pointed out...the backwards pitched lines. It would matter if you had a powered pump discharging the water, it would roll right back.

Downspout lines should be pitch to drop a quarter of an inch every eight feet (or so). The only way to correct this situation (due to the run) is to raise the sump discharge above grade and have a portion of the line exposed...and then put a mulch bed over it...

Face Masks

2007-03-12T17:46:00.000-04:00

No, not a foul called in football; nor a Halloween outfit. We're talking about a face cover that allows you to breathe normally in a very dusty environment.

HZG has addressed many aspects of insulation and weatherization. What hasn't been addressed is safety. Go figure.

The face mask is the most important piece of apparel for HZG - partially due to being allergic to dust. What AM I doing in this field.

The face mask is inexpensive (no need for the canister type). Simply pull the rubber bands back and put over your head and adjust on your nose. I kind of sound like an airline steward explaining the seat belt. This mask, if used properly, can be used for several applications. Just don't allow the dust and dirt to get into the inside of the mask. The mask itself will allow you to breathe properly and not feel restricted by a full respirator mask. I would also highly recommend wearing goggles to keep the dust out of your eyes as well.

Green Building

2007-03-11T21:14:00.000-04:00

What is Green Building? The following is a brief description of what green building is. In upcoming blogs (not everyday, but periodically), we'll reference different techniques and building materials one can use to "go green."

When applied to construction or renovation, the word “green” (or “sustainable”) can mean different things, but generally the term “green building” refers to lessening the environmental impact and improving the long-term economic performance of new construction and renovation projects.
Key to this practice is looking beyond “first” costs and incorporating life-cycle analysis and resource conservation measures into the site planning, design, construction, and operational stages of a project.
While most green buildings look similar to conventionally built buildings, their operational costs are often lower because of the use and integration of high-quality, energy-efficient materials and products. Other benefits of “going green” can include better indoor air quality and increased occupant comfort and productivity.

Air Leakage Chart

2007-03-09T17:52:00.000-05:00

When you are searching for areas to seal off from air leakage (and heat / a/c loss), the chart listed shows the largest areas to concentrate.

Number one is "Floors, walls and ceiling". This is the most obvious, however the least done due to the mess of crawling in an attic and knowing where to look.

The next on the list, surprisingly, is the fireplace. Not so much the fireplace, but the damper. HZG goes into many homes each year and would estimate that only 10% have properly functioning dampers.

Ducts are areas that most people do not think about. Earlier we referenced using mastic to seal of the air leakage - not from the outside but internally. This makes your furnace run more smoothly.

Plumbing penetrations (band joist), doors (weatherstripping and sweeps) and windows (caulking around frames) would be the next and most obvious areas.

Lastly, Fans and vents and outlets. Fans and vents should be properly connected to termination kits - outlets should be address through the attic and wall insulation.

OSB Board

2007-03-08T14:20:00.001-05:00

OSB board stands for Oriented Strand Board. This is the next generation of wafer board, brought to life in 1978. Whether you're remodeling or weatherizing, OSB board is a good alternative to plywood (and the cost that goes with it).

The advantages over plywood are:

1) OSB is generally more square and has smaller dimensional tolerances.

2) It can be manufactured into panels larger than 4' x 8'.

3) There are no soft spots such as those that can occur in plywood.

4) OSB is made from smaller (often farmed) trees, reducing the demand for old growth timber.

5) OSB has greater shear strength than plywood.

6) It can be $3 to $5 a panel less expensive.

The major disadvantage of OSB is that if it gets exposed to significant amounts of water or moisture, the edges expand by up to 15%.

With this being said, OSB is HZG's preferred source of lumber panels.

Painting over spackling

2007-03-07T17:45:00.000-05:00

When working on your interior walls, remember that you may need to repaint the entire wall to properly match the look. Spackling blends well surface-wise, however painting over the patch typically does not. If you have a lighter color wall to begin with, painting over the entire wall should match properly. However...

If the wall color is darker to begin with, you will more than likely have to primer the area first. Otherwise, the color applied new will be brighter and clearer. Be prepared financially and time-wise to apply a minimum of two coats - primer and paint or 2 paints.

Short writing tonight...I have to go to Sherwin Williams to buy some paint.

Programmable Thermostat UPDATE

2007-03-06T17:20:00.000-05:00

How poetic that within the past month HZG does an earticle on the value of the programmable thermostat when - BAM - it has been taken off the Energy Star recommendation list. Yep, what I believe in is gone. The reason that Energy Star removed it IS a good one, though...

It seems the programmable thermostat is the new "VCR." A great tool, IF you know how to use it. The dropping from the list of the thermostat is based upon the consumers inability to properly use it and all of its settings. I guess this makes sense. If you are simply using it to lower and raise temperatures manually, the thermostat has no value (except it looks way cooler than the dial thermostats). The savings when not used properly is non-existent, according to the article (Home Energy Magazine is a wonderful publication.)

Sooooo...the moral of the story is that even when something is great and works wonders for you - the general population must agree for it to become a staple or value.

Knob and Tube Wiring

2007-03-05T20:35:00.000-05:00

Before insulating or working in an attic, it is important to know what type of electrical service you have. Knob and tube wiring exists in many homes, for this was the type of electrical service used in homes built between 1880 and 1930. It was fine for the times, but higher technology resulted in additional stressed (and hazardous) loads.

Knob and tubes' disadvantages are that there is no ground wire, limited surge capabilities and brittleness over time. Homes with this type of wiring should be update prior to insulating or protected in advance. HZG ALWAYS recommends having the wiring checked prior to insulating.

With the advent of breakers, the fuse box went away. Unfortunately, so should of the knob and tube...