Wednesday, April 11, 2007

Stupid People with a Wet Basement


From the files of, "you've got to be kidding me"...


Today's waterproofing call involved a frantic homeowner that says she's got a puddle on the floor and the water looks rusty. Upon arrival, the walls are bone dry and yes, there is a puddle on the floor - approximately 1' from the wall. Apparently, water jumps from the wall to a random spot on the floor.


Yes, the water had a rust color to it...yellowish to be exact. I noticed an animal cage close by and asked if she owned a pet. "Oh yes, I have a brand new puppy. He's outside right now." I asked if she ever keeps the dog in the basement...hoping she could put 2 and 2 together. Straight faced, she said "Yes, during the day when I'm not home." She still didn't get it. I asked her to go and smell the puddle. This lady would do anything...if it wasn't raining I would have asked her to wash my car as part of the inspection, but I digress... The lady smells the puddle and says, "It smells kind of like pee."


I'm still waiting for the light to go on above her head, however it doesn't until I say, "There you have it! It's your dog..."


Boy did she feel stupid...I think...then again, maybe not.

Tuesday, April 10, 2007

Warranties and Guarantees


In many industries, there are warranties and guarantees that go along with a product and service. These guarantees are only as good as the company servicing them, as well as the stipulations that cover them. The key here is, there is no such thing as a free lunch. Wheter it's energy savings or home retrofits - you typically get what you pay for...


When talking to a customer about a warranty or guarantee, HZG is explicit in the details as to how the warranty functions. It is important to know that two parties are involved and have responsibilities for a warranty - the holder and the servicer. There are many asterisks involved and it is imperative that you know what they are - such as if it is a waterproofing warranty, plants, sidewalks, driveways, etc. are not covered. If the issue below ground is something else not covered by the warranty, the client would pay. If a crack is greater than 1/16", the warranty is not covered due to coverage...you get the idea.


The following is a banter from the movie Tommy Boy that best reflects warranties in our industry...


Tommy: Let's think about this for a sec, Ted, why would somebody put a guarantee on a box? Hmmm, very interesting.

Ted Nelson, Customer: Go on, I'm listening.

Tommy: Here's the way I see it, Ted. A guy puts a fancy guarantee on a box 'cause he wants you to feel all warm and toasty inside.

Ted Nelson, Customer: Yeah, makes a man feel good.

Tommy: 'Course it does. Why shouldn't it? Ya figure you put that little box under your pillow at night, the Guarantee Fairy might come by and leave a quarter, am I right, Ted?

Ted Nelson, Customer: What's your point?

Tommy: The point is, how do you know the fairy isn't a crazy glue sniffer? "Building model airplanes" says the little fairy, well, we're not buying it. He sneaks into your house once, that's all it takes. The next thing you know, there's money missing off the dresser and your daughter's knocked up, I've seen it a hundred times.

Ted Nelson, Customer: But why do they put a guarantee on the box?

Tommy: Because they know all they sold ya was a guaranteed piece of shit. That's all it is, isn't it? Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed, I will. I got spare time. But for now, for your customer's sake, for your daughter's sake, ya might wanna think about buying a quality product from me.

Ted Nelson, Customer: [pause] Okay, I'll buy from you.

Monday, April 09, 2007

Trailer Trash Idiots


With apologies to people that are not trash but live in trailers, this article is NOT for you...


Following up with "more idiots that shouldn't own homes", today's call came from a true trailer trashette. These people need a good old fashioned crack to the head...


"My trailer roof is leaking, and your company was out here!" Of course, HZG has learned not to expect the worst anymore, for issues are generally NOT our issue. If it's our problem, fine...however 99.9% of the time, well, you'll see...


We completed the work at this person's trailer, and one of the services was applying a coat of sealer (see previous article) to the roof. In the file, it was noted that the ceiling was in poor shape and had leaked in the past - per homeowner description.


Upon our arrival to the site, we put up a ladder and inspected the roof. Well, her boyfriend, we're told, went up to inspect why our sealer was leaking. The rocket scientist brought up "some tar" - which incidentally should NOT be used on a trailer - to correct the issue. Well, he put tar all over, and left his tar footprints behind - all over the trailer. He also walked on the roof - not the bracing or planking. Not our issue...


The trash, er, lady was astounded that we weren't taking responsibility. We showed her the footprints and she said that "I'll have his A$$ when he gets home toonight."


Upon this intellectual conversation, we left...heads held high...

Saturday, April 07, 2007

High Efficiency Furnaces


HZG had his personal furnace go out this past year...it was operating at as a 60+ furnace. Extremely wasteful; however the HZG family's home has been used as a continual test case of energy efficient practices to see what happens after an energy savings measure is instituted. Next on our list is dense-packing our sidewalls (currently empty). The worst gas bill this past winter (with all the improvements we've done to date) was $189. By I digress...

When your furnace goes bad, it's time to evaluate whether to put in an 80+ or a 90+ furnace. HZG recommends a 90+ if you plan on living in the home for more than 5 years and you are in a climate (such as Ohio) with colder than average winters. If you own a rental property, before putting in a 90+ furnace, make sure it is an upper end rental...reasons to follow.

80% or high efficiency?
The EPA requires furnaces to have at least a 78% AFUE (annual fuel-utilization rating). This means that a minimum of 78% of the fuel consumed is directly converted to heat your home. The rest escapes through the flue, literally up the chimney. Currently, the most efficient furnaces you can buy have a 97% AFUE. If your furnace is more than 15 years old, it probably has an AFUE of only 65%, so it's easy to see how improvements in energy conservation can have a direct impact on your fuel bill.


90+ furnaces are directly vented to the outside via plastic piping, avoiding the chimney altogether. The furnace needs to be checked yearly, for it has many higher tech parts than an 80+. Also, the furnace filter MUST be changed frequently.

An 80+ furnace is the best bet for short occupancy, for the savings will not be recovered quickly with the 90+. For lower end rentals, the 80+ is the best bet for tenants are rough with everything - including a furnace. If they are in charge of changing filters, they won't... For higher end rentals, the 90+ furnace can be advertised as a benefit to the prospective tenant.

Friday, April 06, 2007

Combat Global Warming


The following are easy ways for the average homeowner to help reduce global warming. Easy speazy.


1) Replacing regular light bulbs with compact fluorescent light bulbs will save about 300 pounds of carbon dioxide a year because they require 60% less energy to produce the same amount of light

2) Cleaning a dirty furnace filter or replacing it can save 350 pounds of carbon dioxide per year

3) Wrapping a water heater in an insulation blanket can save 1,000 pounds of carbon dioxide over the course of a year

4) Setting the water heater thermostat to no higher than 120 degrees F can save 550 pounds per year

5) Properly insulating walls and ceilings can save 2,000 pounds of carbon dioxide annually

6) Caulking and weather-stripping can save 1,700 pounds of carbon dioxide in a year.


Through these simple techniques, we reduce carbon dioxide emissions by approximately 5,900 pounds per year, per house.


Try one...you'll like it.

Thursday, April 05, 2007

Idiots should not own homes...


Today is a rant about idiots that own homes (and shouldn't). There will be no names, towns or agency names used to protect the innocent. This is a real life scenario.


A phone call was received by a councilman in a neighborhood from homeowner stating her furnace was not working due to a bad contractor. The contractor was part of a weatherization program that had completed work on this person's furnace that day.


The councilman then did the next best lazy thing...he called the Mayor of the city.


The Mayor did the next best lazy thing...he called the Executive Director (ED) of the program.


The ED of the program did the next best lazy thing...he call the heating contractor's office (at 9:00 PM at night...no one was there...go figure). He then called the program Director at 9:30 PM, 9:32 PM and 9:35 PM...on his cell phone instead of his home phone. No answer (but he could have received an answer if he had tried the home phone...)


So then the ED weighs his options...should he send the client to a Marriott to stay? Should he go over to see exactly what the issue is? The ED decides to go to the clients home. The client takes the ED over to the furnace area and states that she thinks that the furnace switch (a couple of feet above her head out of arms reach) was not turned on. So the ED grabs a broom and flicks a switch. Problem solved.


To enhance the story, in the morning the PD gets a phone call from the ED reaming him a new place to poop.


This is a story about brains and the lack of usage of them. The home owner could have turned on the switch by herself. The Councilman could have inquired as to what the problem may have been and suggested calling a heating contractor if he couldn't solve it over the phone. The ED could have done exactly what the councilman could have done. Instead, no one thinks and the PD gets a reaming. Nice.


Sorry for the rant. Regular programming to return soon...pending stupidity.

Wednesday, April 04, 2007

Weatherizatio Training Center


The weatherization training center in Ohio is COAD (Corporation of Ohio Appalachian Development.) Any contractor that states they are weatherization professionals should 1) Know about COAD, 2) Have been certified in various course by COAD and 3) Continue their education. If your potential weatherization contractor looks stupified...well, he / she probably is. The following is taken directly from COADs website for you to get a brief background on what COAD is...


Goals: Provide affordable and effective training that enables community action agencies to provide quality services to serve the low-income residents of Ohio, and serve as a resource for technical consultation and trouble-shooting.


Ohio Weatherization Training Center (OWTC): COAD operates the OWTC under a contract with the Ohio Department of Development. The first OWTC opened in 1980, and as we celebrate our 27th anniversary this year we will continue to strive to improve the training and technical services we offer in the state of Ohio.


The OWTC offers both packaged and custom training courses on state-of-the-art building diagnostic, weatherization and heating system services and procedures to community-based organizations, local governments and private contractors throughout Ohio. Over 14,000 students have attended courses offered by the OWTC. Contact Mike Keyes (mkeyes@coadinc.org) for more information regarding consumer education training, Russ Bogue (rbogue@coadinc.org) for heating classes and related training, and G.H. Runevitch (grunevitch@coadinc.org) for training regarding home inspection and weatherization. To learn more about the OWTC and its current courses, click here:
http://www.odod.state.oh.us/CDD/oee/res_owtc.htm

Tuesday, April 03, 2007

Mobile Home Roof Coating


Today we are covering briefly the coating of a mobile home, a.k.a. trailer, roof coating. In weatherization, sometimes you must apply a roof sealer to help protect the shell of the trailer from leaking. This process is a great fix on newer trailers; a quick fix "waste of time" for beat up trailers. Yesterday, we encountered a "waste of time" trailer.


First, the roof must be scraped and checked for obvious voids. You must ensure that the roof shell is dry, for the sealer will not stick properly...at all. This particular trailer had a bent roof, cracks, footprints...you name it. Once the roof is dry, apply the sealer evenly. The forecast for weather must be dry for at least 24 hours past installing and maintain a temperature of at least 50 degrees F.


This trailer that we applied a sealer to will leak in the near future, however no money was to be ponied up to fix the roof properly. We did this job as a favor, with a large asterisk beside it.

Monday, April 02, 2007

Affordable Comfort Conference


Today's post is strictly an advertisement for a good show that happens yearly in the weatherization field. If you are green, want to be green, or just interested in insulation; this is the show.

Top 10 Reasons to Attend the ACI Home Performance Conference

If you have a stake in residential health & safety, durability, comfort, and energy efficiency, you cannot afford to miss this conference. Here's why:

Kudos for this Conference
"If you want to transfer an idea, a practice, a change of attitude to the home performance industry, ACI is the best place to start. If it becomes accepted at ACI, over time, you see it become accepted in the industry, in training programs, in trade press, in advice to consumers, and in building practice. In terms of organization, ACI is the standard to which I compare other conferences. Few measure up."
Don Fugler, Canada Mortgage & Housing Corporation
"This conference is the melting pot for the most dedicated practitioners in the nation. This is where everything begins and ends; the best information from the best people is right here. These are the people who have the highest concern to make changes, from the level of policy, right down to the level of the practitioner, and to see building science move forward."
John Tooley, Senior Building Science Consultant, Advanced Energy
I gain access to a lot of diverse groups: from folks who've got mud on their boots, to great vendors who are selling products that I haven't heard about, and it helps me do my job better. The people here are diverse in terms of what their niche is in the building science community, but the common thread is, you come to this conference if you really want to advance your knowledge, and take those lessons learned back, and do better work. We've changed our whole approach as a result of our involvement with ACI.
Dennis Creech, Executive Director, Southface Energy Institute
Register Online Today

Click here to Register for the Conference
Thanks to Our Sponsors, Exhibitors, & Partners!
Host Sponsor - Ohio Department of Development
Also Sponsoring AC07
Exhibiting at AC07
Our Valued Partners

1. Brand New Session Content. With global warming, peak oil, and the cost of energy on everyone's minds, this year's agenda is geared to give you tools to meet these challenges and explore the role of the whole house approach. One track looks at Greenhouse Gas Emissions and Going Green. A session in the Healthy Homes track asks, "Is Green Housing Healthier Housing?" and a session in the Program Productivity & Impact tract discusses "Maintaining Operational Efficiencies As You Scale Up." In addition to exciting new content, there are updated and timeless sessions that address key issues and opportunities. You'll still find the solid technical fundamentals that are so important to new staff and management. If you are a repeat attendee, check out the conference agenda for ACI Veterans.
2. Awesome Presenters. More than 170 presenters will share their expertise. Learn from and interact with some of the top presenters, leaders, and experts in North America, including Rana Belshe, Michael Blasnik, Terry Brennan, Anthony Cox, Skip Hayden, Rick Karg, Joe Kuonen, Joe Lstiburek, Mac Pearce, Betsy Pettit, John Proctor, Virginia Salaras, Tamasin Sterner, John Straube, and John Tooley.
3. Top Notch Participants. The people and organizations who attend the ACI Home Performance Conference combine first hand experience of how buildings work, why they fail, and how to achieve home performance that integrates health, safety, durability, and energy efficiency - all critical components of a sustainable future. Their years of experience in designing, implementing, and evaluating whole house practices are best represented at this conference. The ACI annual conference has a reputation for being the destination for committed professionals, and is a primary event for networking, renewing old connections, and making new ones.
4. Continuing Education Units & Certifications. Take advantage of this opportunity to update your credentials and certifications. CEUs are available from
AIA
ASHI
BPI
EEBA
Minnesota Residential Building Officials
NACHI
NARI
NATE
Ohio Residential Building Officials
Ohio Residential Plan Examiners
Ohio Residential Building Inspectors
Ohio HVAC
Ohio Hydronics
and RESNET. Click here to learn what credits are available for each session. BPI in-field and written certification testing will be available. Email info@BPI.org or call 1-877-274-1274 for more information. Rater certification testing is also available. For further info, contact Terry Smith at terry.smith@installed.net or 614-351-1439.
5. Half Day & Full Day Short Courses. On Monday and Thursday afternoon you can dig in for an intensive learning experience with more than 50 Short Courses. Just as a sample, check out the session descriptions for MFD 01N The Garage Connection, MFD 04N Techniques for Using Spray Foam & Sealants, MAM 19 Windows: Sorting Through the Options, MAM 20 Training that Sticks, MPM 12 Sales Boot Camp for Whole House Services, ThPM 03 Sell Solutions, Don't Buy Problems, and ThPM 08 Practical In-house Monitoring for Assessment & Feedback. You can view all short courses by clicking here.
6. There's something for everyone on the agenda. With 104 sessions in the core conference alone, you may feel like a kid in a candy store! Tailored agendas have been provided for 27 different fields - some recently added include Sales & Marketing Staff, Utility Staff, Affordable Housing Providers, and Women and Minority Business Owners. Use the drop down box at the top right corner of each agenda page to find the sessions of interest to you.
7. Flexible Scheduling that Suits your Time Availability. If you can't spare the whole week, you can come for a half day, full day, or for the core conference. Conference pricing covers all options!
8. It's a Cost Effective Training & Conference Opportunity The conference has so much to offer, it pays to send more than one person from your organization. One person can't get to every session of interest, or network with every person you want to reach. You can increase the impact for your organization when more than one person attends. Group discounts are available when you send three or more people from the same organization.
9. Visit an Exciting Tradeshow. Find effective solutions and build relationships at the two-day trade show. You'll have access to the nation's leading manufacturers showcasing cutting edge products and technology. Meet face to face with companies who provide the tools and services you need to work smarter! See who is exhibiting.
10. Evening Sessions, Special Events and Fun Things to Do. ACI has planned lots for you to do during evening hours, as well as before and after the core conference. Check out the Tuesday evening Forum - Aggressive Residential Efficiency for Greenhouse Gas Reduction, Friday's full day special event Profit with Home Performance, the Thursday afternoon Cleveland Renewables Tour, and more on our Special Features page.
Haven't registered yet? Register Online Now!
Who Should Attend this Conference? Program implementers, home performance contractors, weatherization providers, administrators, trainers / educators, utility representatives, energy efficiency advocates, green champions, policy makers, energy raters, building scientists, design professionals, home inspectors, product manufacturers, builders, remodelers, HVAC contractors & installers, insulation & air sealing contractors, code officials, and others concerned with health, comfort, safety, and energy efficiency in homes.


email: aci@affordablecomfort.org
phone: 800-344-4866
web: http://rs6.net/tn.jsp?t=7rezc5bab.0.m8ucgcbab.llssnbbab.4066&ts=S0233&p=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.affordablecomfort.org

Saturday, March 31, 2007

Insulation Machines


There are many types of insulation machines, from the small portable blowers that you can rent from major home improvement stores, to the large truck mountables. The larger truck mounts are more powerful and less prone to issues.


For those that want to insulate their attics on their own, the rented units do an adequate, although not a great, job. The type of machine that our company uses is the Krendl. The Krendl has a long history of success behind it. Behind every success is a company that can service it. We are lucky enough to have a major player in Ohio, Applied Energy Products of Canton. They offer outstanding service, and our Krendl has yet to be down more than one day for a tune-up.


When evaluating doing it yourself versus hiring out, remember that a good weatherization company will go the extra step of air sealing. It also has a better machine (able to reach tough places) and can obtain cellulose for a lesser of a cost. So you may end up paying more; but the job done by a true weatherization company will outperform and out-save the average person.

Thursday, March 29, 2007

Compact Fluorescent Bulbs


HZG has touched on CFLs in the past; however in this time of "Al Gore", California legislation to eliminate incandescent bulbs, etc...it's time to address the effectiveness of the bulbs again. Thanks to Energy Star for providing the following information.

ENERGY STAR qualified CFLs:
* Use at least 2/3 less energy than standard incandescent bulbs to provide the same amount of light, and last up to 10 times longer.


* Save $30 or more in energy costs over each bulb’s lifetime

* Generate 70 percent less heat, so they’re safer to operate and can cut energy costs associated with home cooling.

* In addition to other quality requirements, must turn on instantly, produce no sound, and fall within a warm color range or be otherwise labeled as providing cooler color tones.

* Are available in different sizes and shapes to fit in almost any fixture, for indoors and outdoors.

Where to Use CFLs:
* To get the most energy savings, replace bulbs where lights are on the most, such as your family and living room, kitchen, dining room, and porch.

* Some CFLs have trouble operating in enclosed fixtures. Check the CFL's packaging for any restrictions on use.

How to Choose the Right Light:
* Matching the right CFL to the right kind of fixture helps ensure that it will perform properly and last a long time. Read the packaging to be sure that the type you choose works for the fixture you have in mind. For example:

* If a light fixture is connected to a dimmer or 3-way switch, select CFLs that are labeled for this use

* For recessed fixtures, it is better to use a 'reflector' CFL versus a standard-shaped bulb.

* Choose the color that works best for you. For example, while most CFLs are created with warm colors for your home, you could choose a cooler color for task lighting.

* To get a CFL with the right amount of light, choose one that offers the same lumen rating as the light you are replacing. The higher the lumen rating, the greater the light output. Use the table below to see how lumens can generally be compared.

Wednesday, March 28, 2007

Wet Basement Seam Issue


Today, HZG got a little dirty. OK, a lot dirty.


I was called to the home site by a prominent builder to help diagnose a basement issue that had been worked on in the past by a different company. The first issue was easy to diagnose; it was hydrostatic pressure coming from earth over waterproofing. There was approximately 6" of earth over the board with no waterproofing - easy to fix.


The second leak (see picture) was one of those "bad feeling" leaks. Digging down at the corner, I noticed that the protection board butted at the inside corner - not overlapping. Water was able to hit the corner of the block with no issue, traveling down to the footer and into the basement. Without putting an inside system in, the only recourse is to excavate down to the footer and re-apply properly. Major mess; major expense.


The moral of this story is that the job needs to be done right the first time.

Tuesday, March 27, 2007

Hole Cutters


What a useful tool the hole cutter is. For those of you not familiar, you can pick up one of these items for as inexpensively at $5.00 or as much as $50. Both price ranges can be picked up from your local or chain hardware store.


Having trouble determining if you have insulation in your walls? Buy one of these hole cutters, insert into your drill - then find an inconspicuous place to drill.


HZG recommends:

1) The 2" hole cutter - large enough that you can plainly see inside of a wall cavity; small enough that you can plug with a Styrofoam plug and spackle.

2) Choosing a closet that shares an outside wall. This way you can easily see the wall while not trying to match wall textures in an interior.


The only downside is the dust - so if you have issues with breathing, wear a dust mask.


A great tool - and a lot less expensive than an infrared camera.

Monday, March 26, 2007

Fun Energy Facts


Now that I have the stink off me (see yesterday's writing), I thought I'd share some fun energy facts with you:


* Amount of extra gasoline consumed in the US due to low tire pressure: 730 million gallons per year


* Amount that fuel efficiency can be increased by driving 65 miles per hour instead of 75: 15%


* Average life expectancy of aluminum windows: 15 to 20 years. For wood windows: 30 years


* Increase in the amount of garbage produced by Americans between Thanksgiving and New Years: 25%


* Percent by which a radiant barrier in the roof can reduce heat gain: 25%


* Amount of CO2 that Americans generate during the holidays just from shipping: 600 million tons - more than the entire annual output of Canada


That's it for today!

Sunday, March 25, 2007

Trash Dumpsters


Today was a "yuck" day. Every spring, if you are in the rental business, is trash pick-up day. I have a block of duplexes that in the winter do very poorly. By very poorly, I mean that people cannot seem to find the dumpster no matter what. So every spring, once the snow melts, is pick-up the trash day.


I'm constantly trying to think of how to stop this issue to no avail. The city won't pick up due to the volume of homes, or apartments. The trash company won't put the dumpster in the best location due to the driveway narrowness. The tenants are lazy. Bad combination.


So...owning apartments is great, but sometimes you need to get a little dirty. Kind of like today...

Friday, March 23, 2007

Above Grade Insulation Needs


We've addressed this before...however pictures sometimes are worth 1,000 words. The area at the band joist / above grade block is one of the least efficient areas for heat retention.


The infrared photos attached is a prime example of the glowing heat loss of the home. The best thing that I've recommended is the masonry foam core insulation, 3 courses down (2 courses exposed). This raises the R-value of the block from approximately 2.4 to approximately 8.2. Energy savings at its finest.

Thursday, March 22, 2007

Waterbeds and Energy


A waterbed typically uses nearly as much electricity as a refrigerator, costing about $77 per year to heat. The 17 million waterbeds in this country consume the electrical output of five large power plants.


If you have a waterbed, here are some tips to reduce its energy costs:
1) Make the bed and cover it completely with a thick quilt. A quilted cover can halve your waterbed's heating bill. Insulate.

2) Use one-inch foam or reflective wrap beneath and around the sides of the mattress (make sure the reflector is rated for your water heater temperature).

3) Plug the heater into a timer and set it to turn off an hour or two before you get up and to come back on a few hours before you go to bed.


Personally, I like a hard mattress for spine reasons. Had a waterbed; surfed too much when sleeping.

Wednesday, March 21, 2007

Electrical Wiring Booby-Traps


Today's attic inspection was one for the books. I felt like a soldier going through a mine field. I have never seen this many wires running through an attic. The picture above is about 1/50th of what I saw today.


Part of being involved in an energy field is not just knowing how to weatherize, it's knowing how to diagnose a cluster - ****. This was a mess...


This client had run speaker wiring, outlet wiring, security system wiring, can lighting wiring, wiring for wiring, wiring for looks...you get the picture. Besides the obvious penetration issues, there is the extra effort to secure the wiring out of the way - as well as pricing the job extra due to the time involved avoiding it.


The largest issue I saw was a security wiring bundle running down the chimney chase way (6" x 8'). I pointed out to the client that I could follow the wiring throughout the house, from attic to basement.


Bottom line...be careful in attics; there are mine fields everywhere...

Tuesday, March 20, 2007

The Blower Door - Revisited


We've touched on the blower door in the past - it's time to touch on it again. The blower door is a great tool to detect air leakage, NOT insulation.


The blower door is used to set the bar for the tightness of a home. A home should not be completely tight - however is should be to a certain level. 2,750 CFM50 is where "optional" air sealing begins.


The last house I tested came in at 2,195 at CFM50 with an A-ring. The clients were astounded when I said they had minimal issues. Minor caulking to be done along the sill plate in the basement - but that was it. The biggest issue the client had was with a hole cut into a wall - this had nothing to do with air sealing.


So...the blower door is a tool, not an all-saving answer...

Monday, March 19, 2007

Xypex Basement Waterproofing Paint


Normally HZG doesn't recommend a specific product or brand. Today is not one of those days.

Too often we hear the words "Dry - Lock" when discussing sealing a basement's wet walls. Dry - Lock is little more than a strong interior paint. I personally despise it, for "a", it masks the problem; "b", if there is a water issue it will eventually bleed through and "c", it will discolor.


Xypex is a good waterproofing agent for basements. It is a little more expensive, but the results are much more satisfying. Xypex MUST be applied when the walls are wet; this gives it a serious leg up on any other product. It typically comes with a 5-year warranty - more than most interior products. It will not last forever, however it is the best line of defense for continual wet walls.

Sunday, March 18, 2007

Vermiculite Insulation


Vermiculite insulation can been seen in many attics of older homes. This material, while not providing the best R-value, is very fire resistant. With the discovery of the hazards of asbestos, vermiculite is now a dangerous material that will never be installed in attics again. The best advice HZG can give to you if you discover that you have vermiculite in your attic is:


DO NOT DISTURB IT. Any disturbance has the potential to release asbestos fibers into the air. Limiting the number of trips you make to your attic and shortening the length of those trips can help limit your potential exposure. EPA and ATSDR strongly recommend that:


• Vermiculite insulation be left undisturbed in your attic. Due to the uncertainties with existing testing techniques, it is best to assume that the material may contain asbestos.


• You should not store boxes or other items in your attic if retrieving the material will disturb the insulation.


• Children should not be allowed to play in an attic with open areas of vermiculite insulation.


• If you plan to remodel or conduct renovations that would disturb the vermiculite, hire professionals trained and certified to handle asbestos to safely remove the material.


• You should never attempt to remove the insulation yourself. Hire professionals trained and certified to safely remove the material.

Saturday, March 17, 2007

Green Energy Facts


Fun Energy facts, supplied by Green Builder Magazine...


* Number of times you could circle the globe each year with discarded magazines, by laying them end to end: 60


* Percent of energy that is wasted by air infiltration and exfiltration in most homes: 40% - 50%


* Amount of idling time needed to warm up a car, even on winter days: 30 seconds


* Percent by which humans are consuming the planet's resources faster than the earth can renew them: 25%


* One reason noncommercial US vehicles are using at least 938 million more gallons of gasoline annually than they did in 1960: drivers are heavier, on average, by 25 pounds


* Amount that energy consumption could be cut over the next 15 years, if households and industry use current products and technology, and government encourages efficiency and savings instead of consumption: 50%


* Number of Boeing 747 airplanes that could be built each year with aluminum from cans discarded by the US airline industry: 58


Fun facts - we can all do a little better.

Friday, March 16, 2007

Air Nailers


When you are working with a large quantity of wood - such as installing a 7,800 square foot ceiling - an air nailer is indispensable.


Air nailers use a compressor to drive nails "rapid fire" to connect two surfaces. When purchasing a nailer, it is important to purchase a quality gun - one that can connect two hard surfaces together without jamming the gun.


Nailers are fast and easy to use - and you can pick a reasonably good one up for $200 - $300. The labor saved will easily cover the cost of the tool with the first average sized job.


The also make great weapons...just kidding...

Thursday, March 15, 2007

Frustrating Job Change


This issue can apply to anyone, not just HZG. It's the "so here's how the job is going to go and the price that goes with it. Oh wait, you mean we have to do it a different way that will add 3 days to the job?"


Yes, that is what happened today. The photo is not HZG - but it represents how I felt (on the inside of course; never let a customer see your reaction.)


We were in the process of installing a ceiling in a warehouse when the electrician came up and said, "You can't move the conduit." Well, that's all fine and dandy except that we priced the job based upon not having to make a million (or 2 million) cuts. The extra cuts will add 2-3 days to the job (and 2-3 days worth of a boom rental - 23 foot high ceiling).


I'm still debating whether to go back to the client and charge additional funds. My quote stated what we were going to do - however it didn't get to the specifics of "what would happen if we couldn't do the job based on another contractor."


With this being said - lesson well learned - be EXPLICIT with all quotes - and don't get to angry with yourself if it doesn't go your way.

Wednesday, March 14, 2007

Telescoping Ladders


Have you ever seen a product that you thought was neat, but were skeptical at the same time? The telescoping ladder was my most recent intrigue / doubt.


The concept of the tool is great. Yes, a ladder is a tool. A 3' tall ladder than can expand to 12'. Compact enough to put in the backseat of a car, yet capable of reaching most attics. After getting tired of lugging a ladder around on sales calls, I finally broke down and spent the $170 and purchased one. The results are...


It's worth the investment if...

1) You need the space savings (I did)

2) You are tired of lugging a ladder around (I was)

3) The attics necessary to get into have a minimal lip to lay the expanded ladder up against (most do)

4) You are tired of manipulating a ladder around tight corners (I was)


It's not worth the investment if...

1) You are a big person (more than 225 pounds). The ladder is safety rated, but it get a bit of a bow in it at heavier weights.

2) You work in a tar or "goo" environment. The telescoping ladder slides within itself - so anything sticking to the ladder will gum up the works.

3) You need the ladder in areas where you cannot lay it up against something.


Overall - worth the investment.

Tuesday, March 13, 2007

Downspout Lines


HZG witness today one of the worst downspout line installations of all time. The homeowner wanted to blame the waterproofing for his wet basement. However, upon noticing water stains around the downspout leaders we popped the caps. Low and behold, standing water in the downspout line.


Upon digging the lines up and seeing the puddles of water around all the broken lines (standing water, freezing), we pointed out...the backwards pitched lines. It would matter if you had a powered pump discharging the water, it would roll right back.


Downspout lines should be pitch to drop a quarter of an inch every eight feet (or so). The only way to correct this situation (due to the run) is to raise the sump discharge above grade and have a portion of the line exposed...and then put a mulch bed over it...

Monday, March 12, 2007

Face Masks


No, not a foul called in football; nor a Halloween outfit. We're talking about a face cover that allows you to breathe normally in a very dusty environment.


HZG has addressed many aspects of insulation and weatherization. What hasn't been addressed is safety. Go figure.


The face mask is the most important piece of apparel for HZG - partially due to being allergic to dust. What AM I doing in this field.


The face mask is inexpensive (no need for the canister type). Simply pull the rubber bands back and put over your head and adjust on your nose. I kind of sound like an airline steward explaining the seat belt. This mask, if used properly, can be used for several applications. Just don't allow the dust and dirt to get into the inside of the mask. The mask itself will allow you to breathe properly and not feel restricted by a full respirator mask. I would also highly recommend wearing goggles to keep the dust out of your eyes as well.

Sunday, March 11, 2007

Green Building

What is Green Building? The following is a brief description of what green building is. In upcoming blogs (not everyday, but periodically), we'll reference different techniques and building materials one can use to "go green."

When applied to construction or renovation, the word “green” (or “sustainable”) can mean different things, but generally the term “green building” refers to lessening the environmental impact and improving the long-term economic performance of new construction and renovation projects.
Key to this practice is looking beyond “first” costs and incorporating life-cycle analysis and resource conservation measures into the site planning, design, construction, and operational stages of a project.
While most green buildings look similar to conventionally built buildings, their operational costs are often lower because of the use and integration of high-quality, energy-efficient materials and products. Other benefits of “going green” can include better indoor air quality and increased occupant comfort and productivity.

Friday, March 09, 2007

Air Leakage Chart


When you are searching for areas to seal off from air leakage (and heat / a/c loss), the chart listed shows the largest areas to concentrate.
Number one is "Floors, walls and ceiling". This is the most obvious, however the least done due to the mess of crawling in an attic and knowing where to look.
The next on the list, surprisingly, is the fireplace. Not so much the fireplace, but the damper. HZG goes into many homes each year and would estimate that only 10% have properly functioning dampers.
Ducts are areas that most people do not think about. Earlier we referenced using mastic to seal of the air leakage - not from the outside but internally. This makes your furnace run more smoothly.
Plumbing penetrations (band joist), doors (weatherstripping and sweeps) and windows (caulking around frames) would be the next and most obvious areas.
Lastly, Fans and vents and outlets. Fans and vents should be properly connected to termination kits - outlets should be address through the attic and wall insulation.

Thursday, March 08, 2007

OSB Board


OSB board stands for Oriented Strand Board. This is the next generation of wafer board, brought to life in 1978. Whether you're remodeling or weatherizing, OSB board is a good alternative to plywood (and the cost that goes with it).


The advantages over plywood are:

1) OSB is generally more square and has smaller dimensional tolerances.

2) It can be manufactured into panels larger than 4' x 8'.

3) There are no soft spots such as those that can occur in plywood.

4) OSB is made from smaller (often farmed) trees, reducing the demand for old growth timber.

5) OSB has greater shear strength than plywood.

6) It can be $3 to $5 a panel less expensive.


The major disadvantage of OSB is that if it gets exposed to significant amounts of water or moisture, the edges expand by up to 15%.


With this being said, OSB is HZG's preferred source of lumber panels.

Wednesday, March 07, 2007

Painting over spackling


When working on your interior walls, remember that you may need to repaint the entire wall to properly match the look. Spackling blends well surface-wise, however painting over the patch typically does not. If you have a lighter color wall to begin with, painting over the entire wall should match properly. However...

If the wall color is darker to begin with, you will more than likely have to primer the area first. Otherwise, the color applied new will be brighter and clearer. Be prepared financially and time-wise to apply a minimum of two coats - primer and paint or 2 paints.

Short writing tonight...I have to go to Sherwin Williams to buy some paint.

Tuesday, March 06, 2007

Programmable Thermostat UPDATE

How poetic that within the past month HZG does an earticle on the value of the programmable thermostat when - BAM - it has been taken off the Energy Star recommendation list. Yep, what I believe in is gone. The reason that Energy Star removed it IS a good one, though...

It seems the programmable thermostat is the new "VCR." A great tool, IF you know how to use it. The dropping from the list of the thermostat is based upon the consumers inability to properly use it and all of its settings. I guess this makes sense. If you are simply using it to lower and raise temperatures manually, the thermostat has no value (except it looks way cooler than the dial thermostats). The savings when not used properly is non-existent, according to the article (Home Energy Magazine is a wonderful publication.)

Sooooo...the moral of the story is that even when something is great and works wonders for you - the general population must agree for it to become a staple or value.

Monday, March 05, 2007

Knob and Tube Wiring


Before insulating or working in an attic, it is important to know what type of electrical service you have. Knob and tube wiring exists in many homes, for this was the type of electrical service used in homes built between 1880 and 1930. It was fine for the times, but higher technology resulted in additional stressed (and hazardous) loads.


Knob and tubes' disadvantages are that there is no ground wire, limited surge capabilities and brittleness over time. Homes with this type of wiring should be update prior to insulating or protected in advance. HZG ALWAYS recommends having the wiring checked prior to insulating.


With the advent of breakers, the fuse box went away. Unfortunately, so should of the knob and tube...

Sunday, March 04, 2007

Real Estate Tenants...and Their Friends

Today's topic is how rentals can truly be a pain - part one of 1000 (or so...)

At a small complex I own - lower income, great people - the usually calm environment has been met with vandalism. In the whole area of town - there has been vandalism, so I didn't think that it could be coming from anyone at the complex. I was half right...

Within the last 2 weeks, a tenant had her car windows smashed (there was a good $2.00 in change inside), her TV stolen (her window was unlocked) and $10.00 taken from her counter. Her neighbor that lives above her called me with her concern for her safety, for she has 3 little boys living with her. I stated to keep her eyes open and call the police if she sees ANYTHING suspicious. Well, I received a call today, but not from this tenant.

Another tenant called to say that a vacant unit was broken into - nothing taken but damage done. And he CAUGHT the kid. A 17 year old punk...who confessed to everything - including the car windows, money stealing, etc. He has been coming over to help babysit the woman with the 3 children. While the woman was at work, the punk was plotting and planning what to do - and then did it when he knew he could get away with it.

So just when you think you've got it figured out - you don't. Sometimes rental properties can be a great investment...but not on days like today. But it will get better...

Friday, March 02, 2007

Sump Pump Issue and Saturday's Post


Today's post is regarding a very serious water issue in a basement that had a unique diagnosis - however one that has been seen before.


The home owner called in distress regarding an inch of water on his basement floor from the snow that was melting in conjunction with the rain that had fallen. Upon inspection of his basement, he was right. There was water coming in at the floor joint, there was water sheeting down the walls in some areas, and there was a hole in the wall at the top of the first block on the footer that was peeing. Yes, peeing a stream of water continuously (2 hours prior to my arrival, 1 hour while I was still there.) The sump pump had one bleeder with running water, the other with a drip. The sump discharged every 1 minute.


The immediate thought when you see water coming out on the floor is that you have improper drainage - either exterior or interior. However, one of the walls (closest to the sump crock) was sheeting water - meaning the water could be brushed from the wall with your hand. We decided to look outside to see how much snow was on the house itself.


There was zero snow up against the house; however there was water staining where the leaders of the downspouts were - up to the siding. At the bottom of one of the leaders was a 6" puddle, not draining. We continued to walk around to find this issue at each leader until we got to the sump discharge hole - yes, hole. And the 2' of water that was in this hole...created by water. Yep, a stream. We then pulled the leader caps off to find standing water in the leader. Somewhere, there is a crack in the downspout lines. The sump pump was operating, and recycling the same water through. The ground never had a chance to remove the water for it was always there.


The first course of action we are going to take is to re-route the lines into a gravel pit with a proper pitch. This was a new addition that had improper pitching so that the water would not leave. When the ground froze (the line was not that deep), our best guess is the the standing water cracked the pipe. Go figure...


Tomorrow's topic is energy conservation. I'm conserving energy by not writing it. I'm going to one of those once in a lifetime experiences - UFC 68. There will be lots of energy there. At least I can say that I saw it - once.


Thursday, March 01, 2007

Fiberglass Idiot Mistakes


It's been a long day, and the last thing HZG needed was to crawl through a 3' high attic space and see idiot mistakes - for the 4th time today.


When installing fiberglass batts - regardless if you are installing in an attic, walls or floors - it is IMPERATIVE that you install it with the paper / barrier side towards WARMTH. This last attic had an entire ranch layout with the insulation installed upside down. Try explaining that to a homeowner. Especially a home owner that installed the insulation himself. Well, it is always a fun conversation...


Now that the insulation has been installed incorrectly, prior to further insulation being added we must slice the vapor barrier so that the moisture will not be trapped.


Sorry for the rant - and the short write - it's been a long day...